Chateau Phelan Segur

This is such a well known estate now, that it is easy to forget that it was a fallen star of Saint Estephe just 20 years ago, when the property was bought by Xavier Gardinier, father of today’s owner, and president of the Alliance de Cru Bourgeois, Thierry Gardinier.

Gardinier Senior had already made his name as head of Champagne houses Pommery and Lanson (after making his fortune in the fertilizer business in Florida) when he bought this Medoc estate, that is a good 90 minute drive from the centre of Bordeaux. He was no doubt hoping to use his marketing skills to improve the reputation of an estate that had slipped quite considerably in recent years – in fact, one of his first decisions was to recall, or refuse to sell, three consecutive vintages from 1983 to 1985. He even filed a $57 million suit in San Francisco against the Chevron Chemical Company, a subsidiary of the Chevron Corporation, charging that the company supplied the chateau with an insecticide, Orthene 50, that made the 1983, 1984 and 1985 vintages ‘undrinkable and unmarketable’.

According to the New York Times, ‘Phelan-Segur's suit, repurchasing the '83 wine, withholding the 84's already sold, cancelling the sale of some 85's and withholding the rest of the vintage and replacing 2,500 contaminated barrels cost at least 45 million francs, or between $7 million and $8 million.’

What it did, of course, was clearly signal that below-par wines were not going to be tolerated by the new regime, and the Gardiniers have certainly made their mark. Xavier’s three sons now run the estate, Thierry, Stephane and Laurent (Thierry lives on site and is the highest profile because of his presidency of the Cru Bourgeois). The 2003 Cru Bourgeois classification saw Phélan-Ségur ranked as Exceptionnel; today, of course, the classification has been annulled and will be replaced with a Label Cru Bourgeois that will not differentiate between properties as either Exceptional or Superior. Regardless, the quality of the wine is now firmly back up where it belongs, and there have been recent renovations both inside and out to this utterly gorgeous chateau.

Most recently, in October 2008, Phelan Segur has launched a boutique wine, called Fee aux Roses. Named after a boat belonging to original Phelan-Ségur owner Bernard Phelan, it is made with oenologist Michel Rolland (who consults on all the Phelan Segur wines), and entirely vinified in 100% new oak right from the moment that the - uncrushed - grapes are brought into the winery. Taken from grapes over four hectares of Phelan Segur (but not entire parcels), this is a selection of some of the oldest vines on the estate, that have been given careful attention through the year. Gardinier says, 'only the bunches that are best protected, best selected and give the smallest grapes of the vine are selected for this wine.'

Whether creating a super-cuvee of such a well known estate is an entirely good idea (what does that say about your first wine?), this is definitely a winemaking team that has its eye on the future. All 89 hectares of vines are planted at a density of 8,500 vines per hectare, with the majority to cabernet sauvignon, and the desire to keep pushing quality levels is clear.

33180 Saint Estephe

+33 (0)5 56 59 74 00

www.phelansegur.com/

The Wines

I recently(October 2008) did a five year vertical in their beautiful tasting room, an airy double-height former stable with wooden beams, floor to ceiling windows and a Virginia-in-the-Fall feel.

 
Phelan Segur 2007

Smoky, velvet nose, intense but refined. Cedar and sandalwood on the palate, but tapers off slightlytoo soon on the finish.

Phelan Segur 2006

Again, I love the smoky note on the nose, and on the palate this is rich and full-bodied. Slightly dry finish means the oak needs to embed a little further into the wine.

Phelan Segur 2005

These were tasted blind, but still the 2005 just leapt off the table. Powerful and direct, but with a silky quality that is very seductive. Elegant finish, rich in colour and altogether a very attractive glass of wine.

Phelan Segur 2004

Slightly more closed on the nose, this is elegant but needs more time to develop. Good black fruits though, and an acidity and backbone that suggests it has a good life ahead of it.

Phelan Segur 2003

Some tertiary aromas coming through, and this has thinned out in the mid-palate already. There is a smoky complexity underneath and good red fruits, but another example of how quickly many 2003s are ageing.

Phelan Segur 2002

I love the nose on this wine, it is delicate and subtle, but with great quality fruit behind it. On the palate, the tertiary aromas are coming through, with mushrooms and truffles just starting to make themselves felt. Lovely delicacy at the end – a very successful wine.

I also tasted the last two vintages of Frank Phelan, the second wine.

Frank Phelan 06

Rasberry fruits, ever so slightly drying mid palate, but a good strong finish.

Frank Phelan 05

This is much smoother, with soft red fruits and a gorgeous finish.

(Phelan Segur is likely to be between £25 and £40, depending on the vintage, with stockists including Berry Bros and Jeraboams. Frank Phelan is usually around £20).