Wine of the Week
Utterly unscientific, bottles I have opened and enjoyed...
May 15, 2010
Chateau Fayan, Puisseguin Saint Emilion 2008
It's always good to discover a well-made, little known wine, and this 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc blend is well worth seeking out. Owned by 37 year old Jerome Parat (who gave up estate agency to run the chateau), this went perfectly with a Sunday lunch of roast Landes chicken, Ile de Re potatoes and some unbelievably fresh carrots from Marmande. To be honest, it needed the food to open things up, but it is only two years old. and that is a good sign for its ageing potential. Lovely plum fruits, a good fresh finish, and plenty of charm. This comes from 8.5ha of vines, and is aged 50% in barrle, 50% in vat. Oenologist in Pierre-Luc Alla.
Recommended price for this wine is 11.90 euros
November 26th, 2009
Chateau La Connivence, Pomerol 2008
A new Pomerol wine from a tiny 1.45ha plot of vines that previously belonged to Chateau les Templiers. Owned by Alexandre de Malet Roquefort (of La Gaffelière), engineer and businessman Jean-Luc Deloche,and two Bordeaux and French national team footballers Matthieu Chalmé and Johan Micoud, just 2,000 bottles are being produced of this first vintage. Expecting a blockbuster, I was happily surprised to get a wine that has a very fine structure, that doesn't immediately jump out at you but builds in power on the palate. Almost entirely farmed organically, although not certified, its 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon berries go whole into 400 litre Burgundy barrels for integral vinification (that never goes above 28 degrees). Loganberry and blackberry flavours that sit for a while in the mouth, then gather steam. There is a real power beneath, and a serious tannic structure, but elegance and soft plummy fruits is the impression that stays with you.
(Tasted with Alexandre at Maison Malon Roquefort. When released, the wine will cost around 160 euros).
November 7th, 2009
Chateau La Peyre, Saint Estephe 2007
This small winery, owned by Dany and René Rabiller, started bottling its own wine in 1989, after years of sending it to the local cooperative. They now produce around 48,000 bottles a year from 8ha (XX acres) of vines. Unfiltered, and definitely a hearty, traditional style. Cabernet Sauvignon just slightly edges over the Merlot in the taste, with black fruits of plums and damsons, and a lovely gentle toast from the oak. Not the greatest vintage of course, and you can tell the fruit is a little on the light side, but there is plenty of character here. It's a Cru Artisan.
Tasted in when writing the Saint Estephe chapter of Opus Vino, new wine encyclopedia from Dorling Kindersley out October 2010. Should cost around 10 euros.
October 15th, 2009
Les Haut de Smith Pessac Leognan 2005
The second wine of Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, and already drinking very well. I have opened a few second wines of 2005 recently that have been delicious, and a few Right Banks, although stilll many are nowhere near ready to drink. As 2009 comes along and threatens to overtake 2005, this is a good reminder of how exceptional this vintage still is. The tannins are still very muscular, but have opened up enough to allow through the rich, sweet, damson plums on the palate, and the cherry-toasted nose.
Drunk at home, should cost around 21 euros a bottle, according to www.chateaunet.com
October 3rd, 2009
Chateau Sociando Mallet, Medoc 2004
The wine that every Bordeaux lover loves to drink! And it was just as enjoyable as ever last night, rich, dense, still tannic and heavily structured at five years old, but supple enough to be thoroughly delicious. Hints of a maturing palate, with some smoky mushroom and truffle alongside the fruit, the tannins were starting to round out perfectly. Owner Jean Gautreau rarely seems to put a foot wrong with this wine - I was interested to read recently that Jancis Robinson said the 1972 Sociando was one of the few good examples of that year she had tasted from Bordeaux.
Drunk over a lamb dinner with Panos, fellow Decanter writer, who is in Bordeaux for a week. Expect to pay around £25 a bottle, according to www.wine-searcher.com
Magdeleine Bouhou 2007, 100% Malbec
A 100% Malbec from the Cotes de Blaye (which, incidentally, couldn't make it into the new appellation Cotes de Bordeaux, Blaye, as they must have a minimum of 50% merlot, as far as I know - so their 2008 Malbec will be an AOC Bordeaux). There are a few winemakers who are starting to produce 100% Malbecs around Bordeaux (I know of three), making the most of a grape variety that is allowed within the rules of Bordeaux, but is rarely planted. This is far less tanninc than most Cahors versions, and is clearly trying to prioritise the fruit. Made with 20% oak ageing, but the rest is in stainless steel, and 40% is vinified at low temperature to keep the fruit as bright as possible. They are thinking of introducing some micro-oxygenation with the 2009 vintage. I actually really enjoyed this, it did lack a little depth, but was very easy to drink, and a good example of how a Bordeaux Malbec can differ from a Cahors or Argentinian one.
Drunk as a tasting bottle, compared against their other 100% Malbec Cuvee, which is a vin de table and aimed even more at the aperitif market - no oak, 6 euros, very supple and fruity. This bottle is 12 euros, but only 3,000 bottles are made. They have a website, www.magdeleine-bouhou.com, but it is not live at the time of writing.
September 26th, 2009
Chateau Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac Leognan 2001
This was a magnum bottle, which may have helped it retain quite such a youthful, plum and damson rich palate. Around 45/45 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance made up by Cabernet Franc. The Bonnnie family have invested heavily both in the vineyard and cellar, and the chateau is starting to receive serious plaudits, but back in 2001, they had only arrived on the scene four years before, and their new cellar hadn't yet been built. Doesn't seem to have stopped them producing a very good wine indeed, with a smoky nose and still fresh fruit.
Drunk over dinner with my book club, meal of a weighty white fish that went suprisingly well. This magnum should cost you around £45 per bottle (a normal size bottle is £25 from the Four Walls Wine Company, http://www.fourwallswine.com)
September 19th, 2009
Natur de Chateau Penin, 2008
An AOC Bordeaux, and just one year old. So far, so not very promising. But this is a property that makes consistently enjoyable Bordeaux, and I was interested to try this particular wine, as it was vinified and aged without any sulphur. This is 100% Merlot, and is very fruity, with quite intense red fruit flavours going on, but not a hint of rough tannins - or even enormous structure; definitely one to drink within the next five years. This is the first sulphur-free Bordeaux that I have tried, but does tap in to an increasing consumer concern over levels of sulphur/sulphites in wine (although this is often a misunderstood negative - as sulphur is used as a preservative to control spoilage, and without it there would have be none of the quality increases in wine made over the last centuries). But there's no doubt that too much can cause bad aromas, and is associated with headaches etc. To control against oxidation in this case, owner Patrick Carteyron has maintained low temperatures at all times from the moment of picking onwards (something that also helps explain the lovely fruity quality of this wine). He recommends also that you drink it slightly chilled, at around 14-16 degrees.
Tasted at home over dinner, great accompaniment to a home-made burger (I think on this list you'll find a few of those!). They annoyingly don't give the price of this wine on their website, and it is difficult to track down in shops yet, but they willl ship it direct, and can I'm sure put you in touch with stockists. I can't imagine it is more than 10 euros, but will keep you posted when I know for sure. www.chateaupenin.com
September 12, 2009
Domaine de la Solitude 2000
After a long summer break when I have certainly been drinking plenty of wine, but never seeming to write them up on the site. This wine is owned by Olivier Bernard of Domaine du Chevalier, and its romantic name comes from the nuns who used to live on this site. The wine itself is full of rich, red fruits that are still firm and young, but just starting to open up to some tertiary flavours of mushroom and leather, with some lovely smoky tones. The property makes red and white, but three quarters of the land is dedicated to red varieties, with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc.
(Tasted at Le Festin Blanc, an all-white picnic held this year in Pessac Leognan. There were a number of local wines being served, but this one stood out for me. And it shouldn't cost more than around 16-20 euros, making it really wonderful value).
June 1, 2009
Chateau Figeac, Saint Emilion Cru Classe 2000
This 40 hectare vineyard is owned by Thierry Manoncourt and is a premier classifed wine of Saint Emilion. Aged in 100% new oak barrels which by now, nearly 10 years down the line, have completely melted into the wine. Still very intense, fleshy red fruits with cedar with hints of truffles, this blew away the other wines around the table (all also Saint Emilions, but admittedly not classified ones).
(Tasted at Le Logis de Roy restaurant in Saint Emilion. This wine should cost around £80)
May 24th, 2009
Chateau Grand Corbin Despagne 2001
A few days after we drank this wine, they got the news that the promotion they received in the 2006 St Emilion Classification would still stand, despite the rest of the classification going south (you can read about it here, if you are a fan of Greek drama). It really does deserve this accolade, because Francois Despagne takes such care over his vines, farming them almost entirely organically, and his passion for the vineyard is clear every time you hear him speak. The wine itself is wonderfully rich and smooth, and although it has a long life ahead of it, was more than equal to being drunk right now - usually this property produces very supple wines that are not the most powerful in St Emilion and all the better for it. Around 80% merlot, and the rest cabernet franc.
(Tasted over a lunch at L'Envers du Decor, the canteen of St Emilion. This wine should cost around £20 at www.thewinesociety.com)
May 13th, 2009
Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac 2001
The classified wines from Pauillac are often considered to be some of the longest living in Bordeaux, and not to be approached before their 10th birthday at the very least. This had made it to eight years old, which for such a well loved, well regarded property, was perhaps a little young. But 2001 is evolving faster than the 2000s, and it showed itself perfectly with food (I tasted it again at the chateau without food, and it was more closed down). Beautifully rich, very well balanced with no intruding tannins despite the evident structure. Lynch Bages for me manages to combine the power and class of a good Pauillac with a slightly exuberant fleshiness that I really enjoy. Usual mix for this wine is Cabernet Sauvignon (73%), 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.
(Tasted at Cordeillan Bages over an unbelievably good lunch cooked by chef Thierry Marx, and a lesser wine would just not have done justice to the food. About £70 a bottle according to www.wine-searcher.com. Halfway through the meal, we got a phonecall that my beautiful, very wonderful mother in law had died in her sleep at the age of 80. She would have been very happy knowing where we were, as she had lived a life full of great food and drink. Jeanie, this was for you.)
May 7, 2009
Cypres de Climens, Barsac 2006
The second wine of Chateau Climens, owned by Berenice Lurton. The chateau was classified in 1855, and is 30 hectares of 100% semillon. They don't make Climens in difficult years, just as with Yquem - so there was no Climens in 1984, 1987, 1992 or 1993. The second wine, Cypres, is made from the selections that doesn't make it into the first (not particular parcels that are the same each year, but depending on the quality of each vintage and so just as with the first wine its production varies each year). It is lighter and fresher that the Climens, but still with the luscious sweetness of a Barsac. Plenty of honeyed fruit, but beautifully balanced - a seriously enjoyable dessert wine.
(Drunk over dinner with strawberries and raspberries. Approx £16 for a half bottle according to www.wine-searcher.com)
April 22, 2009
Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1997
Sometimes I look back at these wines of the week and can't believe how lucky I am to be drinking them. This was definitely one of those times - served blind (well, only for a minute) it was immediately obvious that this was a wine with enormous personality. The vintage wasn't of course the best in Bordeaux, and the wines were priced in an eerily similar way to 2007 (ie too highly), but this is proof that good chateaux are the only places to go to in difficult vintages. Still fleshy, this has fully melted tannins and is undoubtely drinking excellently right now - although I wouldn't keep it forever, and if you happen to have one in your cellar, get cracking on it right now.
(The label of this vintage was painted by controversial French artist Niki de Saint Phalle. We drank it at a dinner of duck parmentier with Dewey Markham Jnr, author of the excellent 1855 Classification (he had also made the duck confit himself). This wine should cost around £875 for six, so £145 each, according to www.bibendum-wine.co.uk. I have to say that once you look at the price, this doesn't hold up to the value for money in the same way that, for example, Y d'Yquem does. For a not dissimilar price you can get better vintages of Mouton.)
April 12, 2009
Y d'Yquem 2006
The dry white wine of Chateau Yquem is only made in tiny quantities - just 8,000 bottles per year. The grapes themselves are grown on fairly hot terroir, which is not ideal for dry white wine, but to make a virtue of this, they are allowed to get the first bloom of botrytis, to ensure exotic fruit notes, and an interesting signature of Yquem. This is just a lovely bottle of wine - very complex, with beautiful acidity and definitely a dry wine, filled with lemon and lime flavours, but a touch of Sauternes about it, like a memory of its big brother.
(Drunk over dinner with scallops and leeks. This wine should cost around £170, according to www.wine-searcher.com which is admittedly an awful lot to pay for a bottle of wine, but this really is such an unusual and beautiful wine that if you get the chance to try it, take it immediately!)
April 7, 2009
Chateau de la Tour de By Rose, 2008
This is the first year that Chateau le Tour de By has made a rose for general sale (particularly targeting the UK and Holland apparantly) - previously they have made one in tiny quantities just for family and private clients. I'm often unconvinced by Bordeaux rose wines, particularly when they are just afterthoughts of concentrating the reds (ie saignees, or bleeds), but I really enjoyed the light touch of this one. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, and packed full of fresh ripe summer fruits, but nicely delicate, nothing too sweet going on. Only making 8,000 bottles to begin with, but this number could rise.
(A sample of this was sent to me, and we ended up very happily drinking the whole bottle! Only 5.95 euros also, so good value.)
April 2, 2009
Chateau Leoville Barton, 1996
I have been tasting non-stop primeurs all week, so the memory of this 25 year old wine on Saturday night is becoming more haunting by the minute... there were smiles all around the table as the gorgeousness of this wine began to sink in. Still so much fresh fruit, but beautifully rounded out, gorgeous structure still but again so soft and gentle that you barely noticed it. It is definitely ready to drink now.
(drunk on the 40th birthday party of Ben Kennedy, ex-Justerinis and now working with Luc Thienpont in Bordeaux. He has clearly picked up some wonderful wines along the way, as we also had Dominus 2000, Guiraud 1979 and Ruinart 1969, the year of his birth. All of which could have been my wine of the week.)
March 25, 2009
Cos d’Estournel Blanc 2005 (AOC Bordeaux)
Would it be wrong of me to describe this as crack wine?? One glass is definitely not enough. Unbelievably crisp, pure and well defined flavours. So light, silky and fresh that some may say it lacks complexity, but for me it is deceptively simple, like the best Loire sauvignons. Almost 80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon, all hand picked in successive sorts, from 2.5 hectares on cool limestone terroir, the most northern white wine vineyards in Bordeaux, and early picking to also maximise the freshness. I didn’t want to like this because it is very expensive, but am desperate for the next bottle already! (13%).
(Tasted at home in research for an article on Bordeaux whites. This particular wine sells at around £150 in the UK, although subsequent vintages are not as expensive. Owner Jean Guillaume Prats brings it out at the same price as the red each year.)
March 18, 2009
Chateau Clos Fourtet, Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe 1999
I seem to owe rather a lot of wines of the week... it's not because I haven't been drinking them, but because I haven't been putting them here. This actually dates back to early February, but I have my notes, which were full of praise. A Premier Grand Cru Classe B, and located right in the centre of Saint Emilion, this very well structured wine is just getting into its own, and very ready for drinking now, although I'm sure it has a way to go. Still full of fresh, rich black fruit, with a fresh backbone and lovely lingering finish.
(tasted 4/2/2009. I had got it ready for dinner with friends, but when the dinner was cancelled, we couldn't resist opening it anyway. YOu should be able to find this wine for around £30.)
January 24, 2009
Girolate, Bordeaux 2003
I had a cup of tea this afternoon with the lovely Aymeric Fournier of Despagne Wines, and it reminded me not only how much care and attention goes into making Girolate, but also that I had a bottle of the 2003 at home... and here we are. I have been a little nervous about opening this to be honest, because I know it is planted at 10,000 vines per hectare, and cropped to around 20 hl/h, and cosseted throughout its life like a tiny princess... and I was worried it would be too much. But this is gorgeous, perfectly ready to drink but still with plenty of life, rich and smooth and beautifully polished. Intense red fruits, plenty of chocolate and mocha, 100% merlot.
(tasted at home with spaghetti bolognaise, when the Bordeaux storms meant I couldn't keep a dinner date with friends... around 50 euros, according to www.vinogusto.com)
January 10, 2009
Chateau La Pointe, Pomerol 2004
Since moving to Bordeaux five years ago, this is one chateau that I seem to have personally bought and enjoyed again and again (as opposed to the more usual route for a wine journalist of panel tastings etc...). One of Pomerol's biggest estates at just under 25 hectares, the wines don't always enjoy the best reputation of the appellation, and I think unfairly so. They may not have the intense power of some Pomerols, but for me that is exactly what makes them so great - this is a wine that is truly pleasurable to drink, very soft silky tannins and lovely raspberry and plum fruits. They also keep the percentage of new oak barrels down to around 35%, meaning it is rarely over-powering. Recently bought by the insurance company Generali, major new investment has begun.
(Drunk over very Bordelais dinner of steak with shallots in red wine - not La Pointe! - and frites. This should cost around £19.99 at Majestic WIne Warehouse, www.majestic.co.uk)
January 3, 2009
Chateau La Mission Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan 1994
Not a bad wine to kick off the year. This was actually tasted as part of a mini-horizontal alongside its sister property Haut Brion, but it was La Mission that really stood out. Amazingly perfumed from the very first nose, it was rich and complex and had wonderful grip. I can honestly say this is one of the most satisfyingly refined wines that I have tasted for a long time - and recent renovations in the vineyard and cellar has only improved things at the estate.
(tasted at a dinner with some very kind friends, alongside a lamb dish. This wine is really excellent price for the quality, at around 80 euros, according to www.wine-searcher.com, particularly when you compare this with more recent prices for both this and Haut Brion)
December 25th, 2008
Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac Leognan 2003
The white wines from good quality Pessac Leognan estates can easily age for 10 to 15 years, and this one at five years is a lovely example of how they develop - slightly spicy with a lovely herbal edge. It has lost some fruit, but that is typical of a 2003 white. This is an estate that I really enjoy drinking in both red and white, run by the ever charming Olivier Bernard.
(drunk with a tiny slice of foie gras on toast before christmas lunch. This wine should cost you around £20 from Fine and Rare Wines http://www.frw.co.uk )
December 15th, 2008
Chateau du Tertre, Margaux 2004
This property has been the subject to the same kind of investment as Chateau Giscours, as they are both owned by the Albada Jelgersma family. Gravity-fed winemaking is the key here, with everything treated as gently as possible, and the quality in recent years has improved beyond recognition from its difficult years in the early 1990s. This was rich and warm, very well structured with good finesse and evident fruit. Seriously worth buying. Proof again of the value of the 2004 vintage.
Drunk over a very enjoyable Sunday lunch with Roisin McAuley (author of Singing Bird and new book Finding Home coming out in January). You can get this wine for £25 from Telegraph Wines; really excellent value for this quality www.telegraphwine.co.uk
December 7th, 2008
Les Hauts de Smith, Pessac Leognan 2004
The second wine of the excellent Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, this 2004 was very drinkable, with really seductive fruit and good depth of flavour. The oak is definitely evident, but toasty and smoky enough to get away with it. Good spice.
(Drunk at a friend's house over lunch with an oyster steak. Not bad value at around 22 euros from Nicolas www.nicolas.com - although you could get some less well known first wines for the same price).
November 28th, 2008
Chateau Roques Mauriac Damnation, Bordeaux 2005
With 85% cabernet franc, this is far from a typical Bordeaux (hence the name, which owner Vincent Levieux gave because he thinks cabernet franc is unfairly damned and undervalued in the region...). The result is a wonderfully perfumed, exotic wine that is both delicate and intense. The fruit is harvested at night-time, and given a cold maceration before a low temperature, long fermentation (he vinifies both red and white at the same 18 degrees).
(Tasted in London at a press dinner at Corrigans Mayfair. This wine is sold with Virgin Wines for £20 www.virginwines.com )
November 13th, 2008
La Reserve du Comtesse, Pauillac 2004
When we saw that this was on the wine list at local bistro for 50 euros, we couldn't resist (it was shared between four, so didn't seem particularly extravagent, and it is a very good mark-up for a wine that would cost around 30 euros in a shop). This is the second wine of Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and has a beautifully kitsch label. Medium-bodied and plenty of fresh red fruits, ir has a smoky edge to it and was great with the classic Bordelais entrecote et frites.
(Drunk at Le Bistro du Vingt (05 56 52 49 79) wine bar in Bordeaux)
November 6th, 2008
Chateau Phelan Segur, Saint Estephe 2001
Thierry Gardinier's estate is well known for its delicious, long-living wines, and this was a delight. This is definitely a wine to rely on, very robust and clearly made with a steady hand on the tiller. Some spicy tannins, deep black fruit, and soft well-integrated oak.
(This was drunk in magnum format over a dinner for six friends, accompanied by wood pigeon which is in season here at the moment. That sounds far more formal than it really was... The prices on www.wine-searcher.com differ wildly on this one for some reason, but expect to pay around £90 for a magnum).
October 28th, 2008
Chateau La Couspaude, Saint Emilion 2003
I have started to open quite a few of my 2003 Right Banks, because I keep getting disappointed with how far along they are, and don't want to wait too long. But this Grand Cru Classe Saint Emilion, owned by the Aubert family, was still very much in play - gorgeous toasty oak and ripe blackberry fruits, but with great elegance and restraint for the vintage.
(This should cost around £30 a bottle, according to Fine and Rare Wines, www.frw.co.uk . Tasted on a Monday night with home made hamburgers, and it elevated the whole experience!)
October 19th, 2008
Chateau Reynon, Graves 2007
This white wine, the family estate of white wine guru Denis Dubordieu, is 100% sauvignon blanc, and makes the most of the vast research that Mr Dubordieu has done into capturing the natural aromas of this variety. Expect plenty of cut grass rather than grapefruit, as he stays within the classic Bordeaux interpretation of sauvignon blanc. A juicy, refreshing wine in what was an excellent vintage for Bordeaux whites.
Tasted at home in October 2008 after a long day's work and was understandably delicious! This should cost around £10 a bottle according to The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com
October 12th, 2008
Chateau Haut Bailly, Pessac Leogan 2000
A wonderful rich plum colour and what a successful wine. This is a wine to melt into, with utterly silky, soft tannins but still fleshed out with excellent plum and damson fruits. Plenty of chocolate, toffee and coffee flavours, but never dipping into cloying.
(This wine is around £30 according to www.wine-searcher.com. Tasted during a 10-year vertical from 1998 to 2007 at the chateau, in October 2008.)
October 4th 2008
Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse , Pauillac 2001
Maybe a little early to be opening a classified growth from Pauillac (this is a fifth growth from the 1855 classification), but personally I found the still-young burst of fruit to be delicious, and seven years is plenty to make sure the tannins are round and silky. Full of dark cherries and brambly fruits, with bitter rich chocolate. If you have one of these in your cellar, don't be afraid to open it!
(Drunk with friends over the course of a dinner. Today this would cost you around £20 for the bottle, according to www.wine-searcher.com, which seems very reasonable for the quality of the wine)