Chateau Grand Corbin Despagne, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
It's hardly fair to call a classified Saint Emilion property a 'Rising Star', but this one merits it simply because so much has changed in recent years at Grand Corbin Despagne.
Its owner, Francois Despagne, has also been made into something of a poster-child for the recent woes over the Saint Emilion classification, as he was one of the eight owners who saw their properties promoted due to their hard work, but then slapped back down to their previous position after the 2006 classification was thrown out. However, that's all over now (if you have the strength, you can read about it here), and the chateau is officially a Grand Cru Classe.
Backing up just a little, the Despagne family have been estate owners in Saint Emilion since 1812. This date is by no coincidence just slightly after the French Revolution, and they were one of the beneficiaries of the redistribution of wealth, having previously been farmers and ploughmen working at Cheval Blanc, who were then given the right to buy land. That land was one hectare of vines on the Corbin 'lieu-dit' of Saint Emilion, to which Francois' great great great grandfather attached his own name. Despagne, it doesn't take Clusoe to work out, has its roots in Spain (D'Espagne meaning From Spain), but no one quite seems sure how far back that particular link goes.
Their first mention in Bordeaux dates from 1665, with Louis Despagne buying the current property in 1812 then spending the next 30 years until his death in 1845 building it up into a 6 hectare estate, and his son Jean added another 20 hectares. Even today, it remains at this size - 26.8 hectares in total.
Today Francois is the seventh generation, and he is one of the most passionate and engaging winemakers that you will meet in Bordeaux. One of my favourite descriptions that I have heard of him (source will remain nameless) is that 'he is short because he likes to remain close to his vines.'
He certainly never seems happier than when standing in his vineyard, or talking about the work that needs to be done on his vines. The vineyard is farmed almost entirely organically, with thought towards going biodynamic, and all work is done by hand (excepting a small machine that helps with gentle removal of weeds around the vines - no weedkiller has been used in this vineyard since 1996, when Francois took over). The harvest also is entirely hand-picked, with sorting taking place both in the vines and in the cellar and among the several new experiments is a laser-optic sorting table that measures the weight of the must, sugar levels etc.
The vineyard itself is sand, clay-sand and soft tertiary sandstone with bands of iron oxide - not surprising when you realise that the property is located very close to Pomerol, which is well known for its iron oxide soils. Perhaps because of this also, there is a high proportion of cabernet franc in the wine (24% in the vineyard), along with 75% merlot and just 1% cabernet sauvignon. Vines are planted to 6,000 feet per hectare with an average age of 37 years.
Francois now consults at a variety of properties in Saint Emilion and further afield, and is increasingly recognised as one of the true viticultural experts in Bordeaux. He was brought on board back in 1996 when the family lost their previous classified status, and given the task of improving the quality so that they could once again be classified at the 2006 ranking. That he succeeded made it all the more ironic (for observers; merely frustrating for him no doubt) when the classification went south.
Two wines are produced at the property - Grand Corbin Despagne (merlot and cabernet franc, aged in oak for 14-18 months, 40% new), and Petit Corbin Despagne (mainly young vines, and aged in 50% 2 year old barrels, 50% vats).
Chateau Grand Corbin Despagne
33330 Saint Emilion
05 57 51 08 38
www.grand-corbin-despagne.com