Graves
Tasted at the Maison des Graves, all blind, the week before the main primeurs started. There are some exceptionally good wines here, but you do have to be careful. Not everyone has lived up to the promises of the vintage, and over-extraction lurks...
Chateau de Caraillan, AC Graves Rouge
Some good plum fruits, but not sparkling. The length is good, but this is not standout. 87.
Chateau Pessan, AC Graves Rouge
Fresh, ripe fruit, although some slightly too evident vanilla oak, giving a little dry pinch on the finish. Cold soak before fermentation. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, aged in 30% new oak (70% one year) for 12 months. 88-89.
Chateau de le Bourdillot, AC Graves Rouge
Over-extracted, the fruit is there but hasn’t been allowed to shine. 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. 87.
Chateau Venus , AC Graves Rouge
The nose is fresh on this one. The fruit is more velvety, and has some personality. Good freshness and lift on the end. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, with a cold soak before fermentation, then aged in 90% French oak, and 10% American oak, for 12 months. 89-90.
Chateau Haut-Maray, AC Graves Rouge
Deep colour, muted nose, real promise. But the finish is harsh and over-extracted, doesn’t quite work. Merlot 60%, Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, aged in barrel (30% new). 84-86.
Moulin de Segourat, AC Graves Rouge
Inoffensive, strangely light, but charming and could offer a good lighter-style alternative to some of the bigger hitting 2009s. 87.
Chateau Chantloiseau, AC Graves Rouge
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Not overly enamoured with the nose here a little smudged and lacks defintion. Not so bad on the palate, there is some fruit, but the aftertaste is not working for me. Aged in stainless steel vats. 85.
Chateau Peyrat, AC Graves Rouge
Quite tight, with good freshness at the end, and good dense fruit. 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. 88.
Chateau Rougemont, AC Graves Rouge
This is a bit over-worked, but does have pleasant fruit extraction, a nice depth of colour, and good length. Merlot 60%, Malbec 5%, Cabernet Sauvignon 30%, Petit Verdot 5%, vinifed and aged in stainless steel. 90.
Liber Peter, AC Graves Rouge
Very dark in colour, rich purple, glass staining. Starts very well, nice attack, good individual elements, but right now the elements are not well integrated. May improve dramatically over ageing has plenty of coffee, mocha, liquorice. 89+
Chateau des Fougeres, Clos Montesquieu (La Folie), AC Graves Rouge
Good plump fruit, good freshness, perhaps ends a little pinched, but a good solid wine. 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, quite young with only 15 years average age of the vineyard. 30% new oak. 89.
Chateau Rahoul, AC Graves Rouge
So sweet, with soft vanilla and very well integrated tannins, and good length. Very international, little terroir, but a crowd pleaser, and plenty of drinking pleasure. 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.5% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Petit Verdot, with a cold soak for two days before fermentation, and aged in barrels, with 20% new, and 20% in larger sized 400 litre barrels. 88-89.
Chateau les Clauzots, AC Graves Rouge
Nose quite open, good redcurrants and blackberries. Less interesting on the palate though, and it falls a little short. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, aged in 40% barrels, 60% stainless steel. 87.
Chateau Duverger, AC Graves Rouge
Very light in colour, not particularly typical of the vintage. No depth to the fruit. Looking for the redeeming feature it is light and so could be charming, but in fact that makes the alcohol go out of balance. 30% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 65% Merot, 5% Petit Verdot. 84.
Domaine de Lestang, AC Graves Rouge
A rich, deep colour, with 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. But this has managed to have to get stalky tannins that are over-extracted, quite the feat in 2009. 83-84.
Chateau Haut Reyes Vieilles Vignes, AC Graves Rouge
Over-extracted again. There is lots of fruit here, could be promising, the length is good, but they haven’t pulled back when they should have done. Might improve over ageing period there is good matiere. 88.
Chateau Saint Jean des Graves, AC Graves Rouge
Good, ample, rich nose. The fruit has a good sweetness to it, strawberries and loganberries, with some subtle vanilla oak. Good length, and nice acidity. I like this. 90.
Vieux Chateau Gaubert, AC Graves Rouge
There is good fruit here, but the alcohol is too high, and doesn’t balance out. There is freshness in this, the finish isn’t heavy, but it just doesn’t quite hit the spot on the mid-palate. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, aged for 12 months in barrel (40% new oak). 88.
Chateau Mejean, AC Graves Rouge
Expensive bottle alert!! Much smoother, classier and weighty than the rest in the tasting so far. Slightly falls at the end, and should finish light but finishes heavy. But it’s good, good weight and nicely worked. 62% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14 months ageing (32% new oak). 90+.
Chateau La Fleur Jonquet, AC Graves Rouge
I like this, until the finish, which is too dry. But there is plenty to enjoy here, good red fruits, redcurrant and dusty tannins. 75% Merlot, 20% cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in barrel for one year. 88.
Chateau Langlet, AC Graves Rouge
Over-worked number here, without the basis of fruit. There is good length, some freshness, and chewy tannins. But too much extraction, swamps everything else. Seems a lot of effort going on. 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. 87.
Chateau Saint Agreves, AC Graves Rouge
Tastes like burnt marshmallows. Very odd flavour, not sure what they have done with the vinfication here the only information I have is that it is vinified ‘traditionally’, with one year in barrel, from 40% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 30% cabernet franc. 84.
Chateau de Chantegrive, AC Graves Rouge
A fresh nose, lovely blackcurrant on the aftertaste, good length. Slightly bitter finish, but overall good, perhaps it will round out over the ageing, definite quality there. 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, vinified in stainless steel, then aged in 50% new oak, 50% one year. 91.
Chateau des Gravieres, AC Graves Rouge
This has some good extraction, I was feeling happy at first, but actually, the elements are quite clunky and don’t hold together. Definitely needs time to bed down together. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in blend of barrel and stainless steel. 87.
Chateau Villa Bel Air, AC Graves Rouge
This is a bit vanilla-y (it is aged in barrel, although not all new). There is charming cherry, and cedarwood, some smoke, but alcohol bites strongly I found the white more successful this year. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 87+.
Domaine de la Chouette, AC Graves Rouge
Not bad, not brilliant. Good lift at the end, nice balance and there is some good fruit and acidity. Nothing stand out, but a solid bottle, from 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, vinified in stainless steel then aged in oak for 14 months. 87.
Le Hauret du Piada, AC Graves Rouge
Nice rich, solid colour. Good deep nose, perhaps a little over evident on the oak. This is in the purple fruit vein, but really dips in the mid-palate, just drops away. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, aged for 15 months in oak (no new barrels though). 87.
Chateau Brondelle, AC Graves Rouge
This is okay, has some wet stones, some good extraction, some rich black fruits. Don’t love the finish, but it does head upwards. Has complexity. Needs to open up, will do well over ageing. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. 12 months in new oak. 89-90.
Chateau Navarro cuvee Prestige, AC Graves Rouge
This is quite rich, velvety and enjoyable. Good fruit, not overwhelming. A little high in alcohol, but not too intrusive. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 60% Merlot. Aged in 50% oak, with a cold soak before fermentation. 88.
Chateau Belon AC Graves Rouge
On the nose, the oak comes through a little too strongly. It swamps the fruit on the palate, takes it out at the knee. But there is nice fruit here and this could have been far more successful. Perhaps they can ease up on the oak over the next 12 months. 87-88
Chateau Saint Robert Poncet Deville, AC Graves Rouge
A good wine, with firm black fruit, good weight, nice creamy vanilla oak, good weight and length. I like this a lot. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, average age of vines 35-40 years, with malolactic fermentation in 100% new oak, then 12 months ageing, also in new oak. 91.
Chateau de Respide Callipyge AC Graves Rouge
Heavy bottle alert!! There is very good depth of fruit, and the tannins are present, but a little bit drying, and there is a little harshness from over-extraction. It has some good qualities, but overworked. Would be good to retaste, as no bitterness on the finish, and some real promise. 89.
Chateau La Rose Seree cuvee Damien, AC Graves Rouge
Have sat with this for a while, but while the fruit doesn’t jump out, the alcohol does. The fruit seems to have gone too far over the maturity barrier, and it doesn’t have enough balance. 86.
Chateau Beauregard Ducasse, Cuvee Albert Duran, AC Graves Rouge
Not bad start, some fruit evident, but tannins again very drying, not well integrated. This is one of the few in this tasting to go straight to the pit of my stomach, sorry to say. 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot. 84.
Chateau Crabitey, AC Graves Rouge
Much better. Good rich, deep red fruits, this has a nice length and good balance, with a reasonably delicate finish. No harsh edges. Not standout, but good. 88-89.
Chatreau Tour de Calens, AC Graves Rouge
Cranberry and crab apple on this one, and a touch of liquorice. I quite like this. It’s quite fruit juicy, not enormous depth, but it is interesting, has a personality, and that counts for a lot. Like this, not a blockbuster. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. 16 months in oak. 89-90+
Chateau Ferrande, AC Graves Rouge
Again, a good nose. And good weight of fruit. A little too sweet and a little too high in alcohol, which swamps the fruit once you get to the palate. Shame. 87.
Chateau Roquetaillade la Grange, AC Graves Rouge
Lovely rich, pure fruit nose that comes translates smoothly into plums and cherries on the palate. High in alcohol, but manages to stay in balance because the fruit is richly textured. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 89-90
Chateau Hay Mayne, cuvee Mayne du Cros, AC Graves Rouge
Bit too bretty for me. This is just a little light and one-dimensional. 86.
Chateau du Tourte AC Graves Rouge
Pinched and over-worked experience. Lots of coffee, but that over burnt coffee taste, when it goes bitter. Over-extracted on the pips. Bitter chocolate, but not in a good way. 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 65% Merlot. 83.
Chateau Magneau AC Graves Rouge
This has gently percolated coffee. Not enormous, but good fruit, nice weight. Charming. 88-89.
Chateau Respide Medeville, AC Graves Rouge
Unbalanced and really fairly harsh, a shame from what is often a good quality estate. 40% Merlot, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon. 84.
Chateau Haura, AC Graves Rouge
The vanilla tastes a little artificial (although it is real barrels, and will spend 18 months in one-third new oak, one-third one years, one-third two years) but there is some good fruit here. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. 86.
Chateau Haut Selve Reserve, AC Graves Rouge
Heavy bottle alert. This has put in all the necessary elements coffee, chocolate, rich deep blueberry colour, and although it heads towards over-extraction, it pulls back in time and in fact has pleasantly long, expressive finish. 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in oak for 12 months (30% new) 89.
Chateau Tourteau Chollet, AC Graves Rouge
This is over alcoholic and the extraction is also a little too harsh. Good fruit underneath, but trying too hard. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, with a cold soak, then long maceration up to 30 days, then 70% oak ageing for 14 months (30% in stainless steel). 85-86
Clos Floridene, AC Graves Rouge
Not a bad nose, some interesting complexities underneath. It starts well, but this is just a little flat, and disappointing. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot not sure about this estate in 2009, usually a star performer from Denis Dubourdieu. 87.
Chateau Grand Abord Cuvee Passion, AC Graves Rouge
Good nose, and not bad at all on the palate. There is freshness, tight structure, the tannins are well worked. Should develop well over the next year. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in oak barrels for 12 months. (more successful than the standard Ch Grand Abord, and good value at under 7 euros a bottle). 90+
Chateau Toumilon, AC Graves Rouge
Quite nice red, charming fruit, nice attack, good freshness. Alcohol still high, which is a shame, but there are no harsh edges, good length. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, cold soak before fermentation. 88.
Chateau Tourteau, AC Graves Rouge
Fine, quite light on the alcohol, slightly more of a deft touch. Quite charming cherry freshness at the end. Easy to drink, not complex, fresh and light (helped by a cold soak to emphasise the fruit). Like it. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. Aged entirely in barrel of new and one year old French oak. 89+
Chateau Haut Selve, AC Graves Rouge
Good rich nose, but alcohol is a bit hot. On the palate, again bit too hot on the alcohol. Slightly rustic also, could be much better. Owned by the Lesgourgues family, this has 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in barrel for 12 months (25% new). I found their Reserve bottle far more successful. 87.
Chateau Doms, AC Graves Rouge
Ruby red fruits on the nose. Really nice on the palate, red fruits, good balance. Slightly dry on the finish, but generally this is very accomplished. 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in 30% barrels and 70% stainless steel. 89-90+.
Grand Enclos du Chateau de Cerons, AC Graves Rouge
Good coffee on the finish, this has complexity and is really pretty interesting. Hot in alcohol again, which annoys me, but good attack with red fruits. Nice. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in oak (one third new oak, the rest in one year old wine). 89+
Chateau Mouras, AC Graves Rouge
This is pretty good, with a nice smoky nose, and some complex flavours and aroma. Enjoyable. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90.
Chateau du Mont cuvee Gabriel, AC Graves Rouge
Ok on the nose, not so interesting on the palate. Too hot, takes out all the flavour. Same burnt coffee flavour. 86.
Chateau Grand Abord, AC Graves Rouge
This is okay, has some good rich flavours, but not particularly interesting or stand-out. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, vinified in stainless steel and cement tanks. 86.
Fleur du Chateau Mamin, AC Graves Rouge
Alcohol too high, but there are some good flavours here, and it does just about manage to balance out. Good finish. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is aged with oak staves, and although that may mean drink up quickly before this pleasant sweet fruit falls off, it’s not bad at all. 88.
WHITES
Chateau Villa Bel Air, AC Graves Blanc
Lovely crisp, gooseberry nose. Juicy on the palate, there is a touch too much sourness on the finish but this is a good wine, from 50% Semillon, 50% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in barrel and aged on the fine lees. 90.
Chateau Le Bourdillot, AC Graves Blanc
Slightly overly flabby, not great freshness. Okay, but needs structure. 50% Semillon, 50% Sauvignon. 86-87.
Chateau Peyrat, AC Graves Blanc
It’s okay, has nice acidity and crispness, and a pretty floral nose, but I don’t love the finish. This has 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon, 5% Muscadelle. Aged in stainless steel. 88.
Chateau Rougemont, AC Graves Blanc
Grassy sauvignon. Not too lemony, but there is a lovely framework to hold the wine. This is a very classic Graves, well understated. 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 60% Semillon, aged in a mix of stainless steel and barrel. 89
M de Malle, AC Graves Blanc
Very thin, in both colour and on the palate. 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon, aged for 9 months on the lees with stirring, and a cold soak before fermentation, then vinification in barrel all things which should provide more of a flavourful experience than appears in the glass. Perhaps one to retaste. 83.
Chateau Chantegrive, AC Graves Blanc
Sauvignon-led, nice and fresh and crisp. Like it. Good depth of flavour, slightly pinched finish but overall impressive. Hubert de Bouard in consultant here, working 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon, vinified and aged in stainless steel tanks. Great value for a wine that is usually around 8 euros. 89+.
Chateau Chantegrive Caroline, AC Graves Blanc
Still undergoing malo, and I still get the apple crispness on the palate that will soften as malo finishes. Good structure underneath - this cuvee has 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon grapes, that are vinified and aged in barrel (9 months ageing). 88.
Chateau Douverger, AC Graves Blanc
Thin, not working for me. 83.
Liber Pater, AC Graves Blanc
This is still undergoing malo, so again not conclusive. Hot in alcohol, but a lot of complex flavours swirling around. 88.
Chateau Les Clauzots, AC Graves Blanc
Good, clearly good crisp acidity and good range of flavours. Sauvignon Blanc 60%, Semillon 40%, owned by Frederic Tach. 91.
Chateau Rahoul, AC Graves Blanc
Good wine successful in both red and white this year. 78% Semillon, 22% Sauvignon Blanc, manual harvesting in small crates. 88+.
Chateau La Fleur Jonquet, AC Graves Blanc
hHgh in alcohol, but some good fruits lurking underneath. 87.
Chateau des Faugeres Clos Montesquieu (La Folie) , AC Graves Blanc
Good grip, high in alcohol. Very nice sauvignon flavour, don’t love it overall though. 88.
Chateau Chateloiseau, AC Graves Blanc
This is attractive. Cut grass and some elderflower. Not bad at all. 89-90.
Chateau Moulin de Segurat, AC Graves Blanc
Boiled sweets, lacks some freshness. 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc. 86.
Chateau Haut Reys reserve, AC Graves Blanc
Round, lemony, good weight and mouth-feel. Not exceptional, but a good use of the 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 60% Semillon, which is aged on the lees in stainless steel. 87-88.
Chateau Ferrande, AC Graves Blanc
Not enormously impressed with this, tastes like a flat cider. Sauvignon Blanc 25%, Sauvignon Gris 25%, Semillon 50%. Aged in blend of stainless steel and barrel. 85.
Chateau Doms, AC Graves Blanc
Not as successful as the red, the acidity levels need to be firmer and fresher. 60% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, aged in stainless steel, with gentle lees stirring. 87.
Clos Floridene, AC Graves Blanc
This has good crisp fruits of apples and elderflower, but it’s not as good for me as in many years unusually, I preferred the Chateau Reynon from the Dubourdieu stable in 2009. 51% Semillon, 2% Muscadelle, 47% Sauvignon Blanc. 90.
Grand Enclos du Chateau de Cerons, AC Graves Blanc
This is good, has rich flavours, but still undergoing malo. It has full citrus flavours, interesting, needs to be retasted. 55% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc, hand harvested into small crates, cold soaking, fermented in barrel, then aged for 10 months in mix of stainless steel and oak plenty of attention to detail from Giorgio Cavanna. 89.