Chateau Teyssier and Maltus Wines 2008
I tasted these direct at the chateau, a few days after the official en primeurs week. There was a very high standard across all the wines, and impressive consistency of quality. Jonathan Maltus now has 52 hectares on the Right Bank, of which 12 are Bordeaux (including the white) and the rest are St Emillion. In St Emilion itself, 32 hectares are on the plain, of which everything but 6 hectares is right next to Monbusquet (that is the original six that is round the chateau), The terroir immediately around the chateau is on ‘the beach’ as it is known, and makes fairly light wines – but even in the Chateau Teyssier itself, less than 25% of the vines come from this terroir, with the rest from more interesting soils. There wines are all merlot and cabernet franc – there is no cabernet sauvignon across the range. Gilles Poquet is consultant oenologist, and as from this year, Jacques Lurton is consulting on the white wines. Picking dates in 2008: Reds on the cotes between 10-23 October, and on the plains from 6 to 24 October.
Pezat, Bordeaux Superieur
Maltus has been making this wine, from vines located between Saint Emilion and Branne, since 2005. Very rich, deep in colour, and succulent, chirpy nose of plums and damsons, 85% merlot, 15% cabernet franc. Cropped at 45 hl/h (30 hl/h was the average over the whole of the portfolio), with harvesting all in small baskets as for all Maltus wines, cold soaking and then 12 months maximum in barrel. Very smooth, very fresh. Not a huge amount of mid palate perhaps, and obviously not one to keep for a long time, but the aim here is to be easy drinking, and this clips along at just the right pace. 88-89.
Chateau Teyssier, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
15,000 cases of Teyssier are made each year (one of the biggest in St Emilion, and with a price that remains constant year on year at approx £18 in the UK). Now comes from vineyards in St Sulpice de Faleyrans, sand but with crasse de fer (iron oxide). Maximum temperature for vinification is 28 degrees, closed pumping during cold soaks, with no oxygen, then pumping over, two settlings, then smaller pumping and some pigeage with inert gas for temperature control. Very attractive again, this lovely glass-staining purple gives it such a joyful colour. This is slightly less interesting than Pezat, simply in that it is less of a find for the money. But there is a lovely freshness to it, clean ripe fruit, and plenty of interest. 88.
Chateau La Forge, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Cropped to four bunches per vine, this is comprised of five parcels from the three ‘terroirs’ of St Emilion; clay over limestone, sand, and gravel (from a plot next to Monbusquet). 92% merlot, 8% cabernet franc. There are again lovely tannins in this, so smooth. Holding off on pumping over right at the end of the process helps smooth things out, and holds off on over-extraction. There are vibrant red fruits here, a very pure, precise wine. 91-92.
Le Carre, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Single vineyard wine produced since 2005, bought from Chateau Canon, next to Clos Fourtet. Fine clay over soft limestone. 85% merlot, 15% cabernet franc. Really enjoyable wine, meatier than the others so far, but voluptuous and enticing, with a very nice butterscotch taste. 94
Les Asteries, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
The vines from here used to go into Alain Moueix’s Chateau Fonroque. The vines themselves date back to the 1930s at their oldest points, and are 85% merlot, 15% cabernet franc. The terroir is thin clay over hard limestone (calcaire asteries is the hardest kind of limestone, hence the name). Takes a little more time to kick in than Le Carre, there is a pause before the flavours start really opening up and working. Then lovely acidity and those slightly pinching tannins that tell you there is a great age ahead. Both of these wines (the ‘sisters’) are aged in 100% new oak. 93-94.
Vieux Chateau Mazerat, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
When Maltus bought le Dome in 96, it was a part of Vieux Chateau Mazerat. He then bought the whole place in 2008. Located near Chateau Angelus, and close to Chateau Canon, the terroir is clay over limestone, with bits of the cabernet franc is on the sand, and some vines dating back to 1947. 65% merlot, 35% cab franc. This has a wonderful depth of flavour, nothing jarring in any of these. My only downside would be maybe it could have a little more freshness, a little more lift at the end but it is a very satisfying wine. 93-94.
Le Dome, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
73% cabernet franc, 27% merlot, reverse of everything else we do. This is about 4 hectares. Single-vineyard. This is often the last picked, as it is up on the Cotes. Maltus, 'The good thing about the 2008 vintage was that even with the very hot days in October, there nice cool evenings that had a touch of winter about them, that brought about the acidity'. A lovely, lilting perfumed nose. Some smoky oak, and some sweetness on the palate from the cabernet franc. Terribly enjoyable, this is very poetic. These are in fact, taken as a whole, a very cohesive family of wine – each with its own distinct personality, but there hasn’t been a clanger among them! And this has that beautiful lift at the end of the palate, when you almost have a minty eucalyptus finish. 95.
Clos Nardiran, Bordeaux Blanc Sec
Very rich nose, 40% semillon, 40% sauvignon, 20% muscadelle. Pruned to 4 bunches for the sauvignon, 2 bunches for the others. First vintage 2000, but just introduced Jacques Lurton as white wine maker here since this vintage (they are planning to do a white wine in Napa together also). Some lees stirring, but limited. Aged in 100% new oak, for about six-eight months (Seguin Moreau). Very soft and silky, biut the acidity is good and firm. Successful. 92.