Margaux and the southern Medoc
A very impressive showing overall from Margaux this year. There were some guilty of over-extraction and high alcohol, but those were in the minority. Cru Bourgeois chateaux to be added soon.
Pavillon Rouge, (AC Margaux)
Paul Pontallier was as word perfect as ever: ‘The grapes given perfect conditions to ripen, and we were given perfect conditions to harvest them.’ This is particularly good. Some wonderful fresh fruit, and a beautiful balance of structure and lightness of touch. The thing about 2009 is that you don’t really how dense it is, because the tannins are so soft. Pontallier agrees: ‘What makes it so extraordinary is the highest density we have ever had, with the suppleness.’ They have been stricter on selection than usual, and made the lowest proportion of Pavillon Rouge ever, and probably one of the best ever produced. 36% into 1st wine. 41% into Pavillom Rouge. 23% into the third wine –13.5% alcohol. A great success. 93-94.
Chateau Margaux, (AC Margaux)
Just utterly gorgeous. Again, this mix of almost silky, unseen power, then a powerhouse of fruit. This is relatively open for a young Margaux; there is a real softness right from the start, but in fact this is the highest levels of tannins that they have ever had. It’s so fresh, and the tannins are so soft and well worked that you can almost not tell they are there. 87% cabernet sauvignon, and a very reasonable 13.3º alcohol. Pontallier rightly says, ‘I have never felt this combination of power with softness and immediate appeal.’ Effortlessly elegant. The cabernets for this wine came from the gravel around the chateau. Some cabernets on the property reached up to 15%, but those went into the second or third wine. This is effortlessly elegant. 98-100
Pavillon Blanc, (AC Bordeaux Blanc)
This for me is easily one of the best whites I have tasted during the primeur week – but several people said they preferred the old style, which was rounder and had more impact (it was previously higher in alcohol). Here they have consciously worked a new style, and I loved the tangy freshness, that comes from the cool nights. Had to make many careful decisions not to get the high alcohols that have been dominant in the past (it’s at 13.9%, last year was over 14.5%) because high alcohol can kill the delicate flavours. To do this, they took out the most over-ripe berries on some of the bunches. Eliminated almost the last third of the juice, because the first juice has all the acidity and freshness, the last juice has all the tannins, and far less acidity. It is less opulent perhaps, but much more subtle, more mineral. 100% sauvignon blanc. 94-95.
Alter Ego de Palmer (AC Margaux)
Beautiful density of fruit, technical maturity early September, but waited for phenolic ripeness, and for the vines not to suffer from too much water stress, there was a very necessary bit of rainfall in the middle of September. In the end the yield was low, at 34 hl/h, close to that in 2005, and they will make 7,000 cases of Alter Ego (45%), 9,000 for Palmer (55%). That is a beautiful wine. Wonderfully dense fruit, but real elegance. Utterly gorgeous. Alcohol is at 13.2 – very reasonable level compared to many. I got a very interesting explanation here for the soft tannins that were so marked in 2009 – apparently the cabernet sauvignon berries had very few pips this year – just two average per grape, less than the usual four, which meant that almost all tannins in the wine are from the skin of the fruit (and therefore less potential for astringency) 49% cabernet sauvignon, 51% merlot, 30% new oak. 95.
Chateau Palmer (AC Margaux)
Unusually, the proportion of Merlot is higher in their first wine than second (just), with 52%, rounded out by 41% cab sauvignon and 7% petit verdot, with 50% new oak. This is because the merlot grapes have been planted on a classic gravelly cabernet sauvignon terroir at this Margaux chateau since before World War II, which goes a long way to explaining the balance of elegance and delicacy with power and exotic sumptuousness. As with many wines this year, they have recorded the highest ever levels of tannins in the wine, but it is so velvety, and with wonderful length on the palate. EPT levels probably 87, more than in 2005, but so velvety. And great length, this is very close in quality to Chateau Margaux for me. 98-99.
Chateau Du Tetre 2009 (AC Margaux)
For me, a clear step up from the 2008, although I enjoyed last year’s and really think we are starting to see continued great results from this property. Fruit is plump and sweet and very approachable, especially for a primeur sample, but with great backbone. 55% cab sauvignon, 22% merlot, 15% cabernet franc and 8% petit verdot. 45% new oak. Picking from 28th September (2008 was Oct 1st, so not huge difference). 94+
Chateau Giscours 2009 (AC Margaux)
This has been very well received in 2009, and I can see why, but for me I am a fan of the du Tetre this year over the Giscours. It has a beautiful rich colour, deeply extracted, this is far more exuberant than du Tetre, and more consciously ‘modern’. Lovely sweet vanilla and full extraction, a crowd pleaser. 53% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, 7% cabernet franc. 93.
Ch Fourcas-Dumont (AC Listrac)
Owned by Borie family of Ducru Beaucaillou. From 08 vintage, now named Forcas-Borie. Dark fruits, maybe slightly overoaked (and not enough smoky oak). But good firm structure. 50% cab sauvignon, 40% merlot, 10% peitit verdot, 20% new oak. 88-89
Chateau Siran (AC Margaux)
Lovely depth of fruit, very good wine, slightly short, but I have just come from Palmer! On a retasting, this is very charming, a good lower cost option. 93
Chateau Rauzan Segla (AC Margaux)
Near equal in quality but very different flavour profile from Margaux and Palmer. This has more intensity, more pressing tannins, but still utterly successful. 52% cabernet sauvignon, 48% merlot, 11% press wine, 55% new oak. Harvest was from Sept 23. Plenty of liquorice and clear black cherry, but also a great whoosh of freshness that allows the whole thing to float along your palate. Another great wine from Kolasa, just gorgeous, with the precision that Segla manages each year. 96-97
Chateau Rauzan Gassies (AC Margaux)
The blend is 75% cabernet sauvignon, up from 55% in 2007, together with merlot 23% and petit verdot 2%. They harvested right up to October 14, one of the latest in the appellation, and have used 50% new oak, which gives an attractive smoky edge. Eric Boissenot has been consultant here since 2007, and this year they tried co-innoculation for the first time (one of his favourite techniques). Unquestionably Rauzan Gassies has been improving in quality over recent years, and this is a gentle wine, with real elegance and good black fruit. But there is still a but... personally I thought the 2008 over-delivered for the vintage, and this slips back down a touch. 93.
Chateau Prieure Lichine (AC Margaux)
Grape blend is 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% petit verdot. This is good, very approachable, a nice amount of flashiness, there is evident oak but nothing too over-powering. Really enjoyable. Michel Rolland is consultant. 94.
Chateau Marquis de Terme (AC Margaux)
Changes happening at this estate include a new director and increasing of planting density. The 2009 wine is deep, rich purple in colour, more evident polyphenols than many in Margaux. This is definitely on the powerful side of the 09 spectrum, but actually successfully so, with a burst of freshness on the finish. Not my favourite, but certainly stands up well. 93-94.
Ch Malescot St Exupery (AC Margaux)
This has caused a stir this year, with a very high James Suckling score right off the bat, and it is unquestionably seductive and exuberant. The blend is 57% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, 8% cabernet franc, 4% petit verdot, and a whopping 70% new oak that is put to maximum effect by consultant Michel Rolland. Picking 29 September to 16 October, making it among the last to bring in the final grapes. It lacks some of the lift and softness of the best wines of the vintage for me. 93+
Chateau Lascombes (AC Margaux)
Another Michel Rolland wine, with a blend of 48% merlot, 48% cabernet sauvignon, 4% petit verdot. I seriously preferred the 2008 for this wine (which was in fact one of my wines of the vintage last year). This time they have seriously over-egged the beautiful raw materials that were given in 2009. There is fruit, but it is drowned out by the oak and tannin. Really a shame, because I was looking forward to tasting the Lascombes after last year’s success. Will retaste when it bottle and hope it has calmed down. 91-92.
Chateau Labegorce (AC Margaux)
Another chateau that has seen several changes over the past year – this is the first vintage since Labegorce and Labegorce Zede have been joined together into one wine. The tannins are fairly tight here and there are very well presented rich black fruits. I like it, but not my favourite here, could be a touch more expressive. 50% cabernet sauvignon, 38% merlot, 8% petit verdot, 4% cabernet franc. 91
Chateau Kirwan (AC Margaux)
A blend of 56% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot, 13,5% cabernet franc, 13.5% petit verdot (which they say did particularly well this year, and which gives a lovely dark colour and distinctively spicy edge to the wine). There is real power and personality here, and a wet stone minerality on the finish. Perhaps lacks a little elegance, but this is an impressive wine. 94.
Chateau Dufort Vivens (AC Margaux)
78% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc, 20% merlot. Good elegance, I always like this wine and they have again produced a very enjoyable wine, with some good but not overworked extraction. 90-92
Chateau Desmirail (AC Margaux)
For me, one of the more over-extracted numbers here, although it does come into balance if you sit with it for long enough. This has 70% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot (there is now 2% of petit verdot in the vineyard, but it won’t come into play until next year) They have upped the cabernet sauvignon quite significantly, and harvested it slowly over two weeks. 39 hl/h, fairly similar to 2008. 49 hl/h in 2005. 92
Chateau Dauzac (AC Margaux)
An Andre Lurton estate (run by his daughter) that has been getting better and better in recent years. 64% cabernet sauvignon, 36% merlot. 72% new oak. This year was a relatively easy vinification, because such good raw materials. Vinified at 28 degrees. A seriously classy wine, where the juice is left on the lees for four months after the malolactic fermentation. Eric Boissenot consultant. 94+
Chateau d’Angludet (AC Margaux)
A touch down for me this year compared to the usual wines from this property, but this is always a reliable Margaux that offers good value (and I’m sure for the price it will still be a good bet this year. Just up against stiff competition in this tasting). 90+.
Chateau Cantenac Brown (AC Margaux)
Simon Halabi’s property continues to assert itself. The blend is 65% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 50% new oak. They produced 42% of the first wine in 2009, and 58% went into the second wine BriO. This is very emphatic, big and exuberant, almost seductive, if slightly try-hard. The 2008 felt more of a leap in quality for me, but this is certainly keeping up its level. 93-94
Ch Brane Cantenac (AC Margaux)
Good soft tannins that build up in presence in the mouth. This is very attractive, continuing a few years of ever improving performance from this chateau, owned by Henri Lurton. The blend is 53% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, 7% cabernet franc with 60% new oak. Lovely length, highly velvety and seductive. A very successful year for the property. 94.
Villa des Quatre Soeurs (AC Margaux)
Owned by Luc Thienpont, this tiny estate has just 1.4ha planted to 10,000 vines per hectare. The blend in 2009 is 40% cab sauvignon, 55% merlot, 5% petit verdot. Eric Boissenot as consultant, they use entirely one-year barrels, which does help it keep this very delicate feeling. Good fruit, very fresh and can feel that alcohol is moderate (just under 13.5%) – just feels very easy to drink. 91.
Chateau Tayac Plaisance (AC Margaux)
Another Luc Thienpont estate, this has 65% cab sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% petit verdot. 50% new oak, 50% one year. 3.5has, Jacques and Eric Boissenot again. This has much more power than the Villa, richer riper fruits, but really does finish on a big lift, lots of freshness. Really like this one – their biggest production. 92.
Clos des Quatres Vents
The last of Thienpont’s Margaux triumvirate, and a sweeter, more seductive experience, with 55% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, 5% petit verdot. 7500 bottles a year, so just 625 cases. There is a beautifully sweet edge to the fruit than comes from the 100% new oak barrels, but still with a soft tannins and sweep of acidity that puts among the most interesting of the appellation in 2009. Very impressive. 94-95.