Margaux
An excellent showing for Margaux this year, again one of the best in recent memory and for me far more consistent than in 2009 (unlike, for example, Saint Emilion, which I felt as a whole did better last year). Usually in Bordeaux, high acidity means the grapes were not ripe enough, but that was not the case in 2010, due to the dry weather but cool evenings, meaning you could leave grapes to ripen, but still maintain their acidity levels.
Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux
38% of overall production (and the same again for Chateau Margaux, leaving 24% for the new third wine)
66 cab, 30 merlot, 14% alcohol
Very rich, focused plum flavours, I tasted the blending samples for this wine a few weeks ago, enjoyable to see the result. Some very focused tannins here, well integrated already. This is clearly an excellent Pavillon Rouge, obvious straight from the clarity of fruit, and the complexity, but the whole impression of the wine builds over time in the mouth. The power of 2010 is in the length and the precision, it is not a power that is immediately voluptuous, as 2009, where the power was in the fruit forward attack. Here it is in how the wine grips you, and demands attention. 94++/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Margaux, Premier Cru Classé Margaux 2010
Their highest level of cabernet sauvignon since 2006, at 90%, blended with 7% merlot, 1.5% cabernet franc, 1.5% petit verdot. 3.65pH. Alcohol levels at 13.5% were high for Chateau Margaux, but not for the vintage. A strikingly concentrated attack, everything is so knitted together, and again, it is an intellectual wine, as so many of the best ones are this year. The impact stretches out in your mouth, takes it time to unravel. In the mid-palate, the damsons and pure cassis come in, with rich minerality, clear tingling tannins, but overall a lightness of touch and purity on the finish. It's a gorgeous wine. 99-100/100. Drink 2025-2050.
Pavillon Blanc, Bordeaux Blanc 2010
No-one could accuse Pavillon Blanc of being a value pick in terms of absolute pricing (last year it came out at around €100 per bottle), but in terms of the First Growths, I would certainly argue that it is. As Thibault Pontallier, Chateau Margaux’s brand ambassador in Asia points out, ‘If it was called Chateau Margaux Blanc, it would be three times the price.’ This is the third year of their pure, more pared-back style, where they discard all but the first crush of juice, ensuring lower alcohol (13.5%) and well defined fruit. 100% sauvignon blanc, elderflower, lychee, some crab apple freshness. 94-95/100. Drink 2012-2030.
Alter Ego de Chateau Palmer, Margaux 2010
51% cabernet sauvignon, 49% merlot , for 45% of production (50% into the first wine, 5% declassified). The nose is incredibly open, rich spicy plum aromas, wonderfully fresh at the same time. I love this year how the power is hidden behind the acidity, the freshness. This is a fantastic Alter Ego, very powerful, very clean flavours, totally beautiful length, with a delicate finish. A good 90 seconds before it even begins to dip. Tannins ever so slightly chalky, but that helps reinforce the freshness. 14.4% abv 94+/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Palmer, Margaux Grand Cru Classe 2010
A successful combination of tension and power. The acidity is giving an incredibly balanced feel to what is clearly a huge wine. This has long been the only real contender from an investment point of view to Chateau Margaux in this appellation, and here again proves what a thrilling wine it is. 54% merlot, 6% petit verdot, 40% cabernet sauvignon. pH3.65, 14.3% alcohol. 97/100. Drink 2022-2042.
Chateau Branas Grand Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc 2010 (from cru bourgeois tasting)
This has plenty of structure and extraction, but some lovely top notes dancing around, definite coffee and chocolate, this feels accomplished and very international. 91/100. Drink 2015-2030.
UGC Moulis, Listrac, Margaux
Chateau la Tour de By, Medoc 2010
Lovely nose of blueberry muffin! Not exactly powerful compared to some, but great length, and very competent fruit structure. This is a clean and good sample, could be a little more generous. 89+/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Chateau Greysac, Medoc 2010
Rich, deep ruby red, good nose and fresh fruit attack, but a touch pinched in the mid palate, and some lack of balance from the alcohol. Extraction could have been more smoothly handled, but this offers good value, and has some real appeal. 88/100. Drink 2017-2027.
Chateau Maucaillou, Moulis en Medoc 2010
Good extraction here, plenty of fruit and acidity, there is clear alcohol but it has balance, and the finish is long and elegant. Definite potential from owner Philippe Dourthe. 91+/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch Poujeaux, Moulis en Medoc 2010
Again, some excellent fruit expression here, rich blueberries and vanilla cream, slight toasted almonds on the finish, with good acidity. Continuing an excellent run of vintages from this estate, owned by the Cuvelier family of Clos Fourtet. 92/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Chateau Chasse Spleen, Moulis en Medoc 2010
A concentrated and pretty massive wine, this for me is a touch less successful than Chasse Spleen in 2009, although there is a lot to work with and will definitely benefit from re-tasting a year from now. There is clearly a team hard at work on producing a stayer, but right now it is tightly zipped up, but in separate compartments. 88/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Chateau Fourcas Dupre, Listrac-Medoc 2010
Like the nose here, black cherries, cedarwood. Some good extraction, alcohol a touch hot which is definitely throwing things off for me, but good length and interesting wet stone mineraity from mid-palate onward. 90/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch Fonreaud, Listrac-Medoc 2010
A warm mellow nose, with a touch of rusticity. A little reduction on this, but it clears to reveal autumnal fruits. Slightly muted. 86/100. Drink 2018-2028
Ch Clarke, Listrac-Medoc 2010
Some lovely violet colour creeping in here. This is quite different, a restrained attack but chalky, fairly present tannins on the fnish, quite a different structure from many this year. Still, it works itself out, and I like that it is not too slick. 90/100. Drink 2018-2028
Ch Fourcas Hosten, Listrac-Medoc 2010
Darker velvety red than some of its neighbours. A more classic structure, with the whoosh of fruit, tannins and acidity. Good length, well balance, all in check, successful. This bodes well for the new cellar and other investments recently carried out at this property. 92+/100. Drink 2018-2030
Chateau Dauzac, Margaux 2010
A slick production visually, with a vibrant violet rim. Slightly sucker-punches you on the attack, clearly a wine with ambition. As it plays out in the mid-palate, this is successful, continuing a run of good vintages from this André Lurton-owned property. Good effort. 92/100. Drink 2018-2040
Chateau d'Arsac, Margaux 2010
A successful, (likely to be) well-priced choice, with softly worked fruits, revealing some floral notes, peony and violet alongside the darker fruits. The vines are still fairly young here, which may explain why things are a little lighter than many in 2010. 90/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Desmirail, Margaux 2010
Attractive ruby and violet reflections in the wine. This is a big wine, the attack is a rush, a push and the land that we stand on is ours. Dark fruits, high acidity, high tannins. Touch hot, giving a little dryness on the finish. But overall, impact and potential. 92/100. Drink 2017-2028.
Chateau Giscours, Margaux 2010
A brooding nose, and a fruit-filled attack. This is a big wine, making full use of the 2010 vintage. There is a veiled threat here, and as is so often the case in this vintage, you need to sit with it and give it time, to allow the abundant cassis and blueberry flavours to reveal themselves. 93-94/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Malescot St Exupery, Margaux 2010
Some alcohol coming off this nose, but spiced fruits also, a spiced autumn fruit compote. Big, rich extraction, powerful acidity. Good length. These wines are getting into their stride, some very slick productions, like the texture of this, but finish a touch drying. 91-92/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Rauzan Gassies, Margaux 2010
Inky dark purple in colour, spiced nose of vanilla pods and black coffee. Silky in texture, and I like the restraint on the attack. Alcohol comes in mid palate, but paired with coffee beans and some bitter chocolate and damson. Real density of fruit and tannins, with an elegant edge. A classified 1855 growth that offers such excellent value is rare. 94/100. Drink 2018-2035.
Chateau Monbrison, Margaux 2010
Back to a fresher violet purple. Slightly more muddled nose, and some brett on the palate. The balance of acidity, fruit and tannins is not quite worked out - sorry, but this is not working for me. 86-/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau Lascombes, Margaux 2010
Dark, silky, damson and cassis nose, again the texture is very silky, with some sweet new oak coming in to the mid palate, ever so slightly drying, but forgiveable. Gourmet in style, more like a 2009 voluptuous wine than the cerebral 2010s. Good, I like the chocolate dash on the finish. 93+/100. Drink 2018-2035.
Chateau Rauzan Segla, Margaux 2010
60% cab sauvignon, 37% merlot, 2% cab franc, 1% petit verdot. Wonderful silky cassis notes from the intial attack, class and elegance here, just an effortless wine. There are now 4 hectares of organic vines (for now used in Segla, but should enter first wine over next few years). For now, this has a sweetness of fruit that builds slowly and subtly across the palate, balanced by well poised acidity. Lovely. 95/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Ch Siran, Margaux 2010
Lovely glass/teeth staining purple, now is not the time to smile broadly. Good structure, built to last but with gorgeous minty freshness, eucalyptus, incredibly present, just tingles the end of your mouth. This is excellent stuff, Siran is definitely having a moment this year. 93/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Angludet, Margaux 2010
Nose just a touch rustic, although there is good depth of fruit on the palate, and a good measured use of oak. 89-90/100. Drink 2017-2028.
Ch Marquis de Terme, Margaux 2010
Ripe rich ruby red, Dorothy's slippers (there's one every year). Quite different, not a sucker punch, more of a bear hug, more profound, well worked fruits, rather than in your face, again a wine full of texture, velvet rather than satin. Quite subtle in the scheme of (crazy, big 2010) things. 91-93/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Kirwan, Margaux 2010
Bright vibrant purple, medium intensity. Quite like this, packed full of fresh vibrant fruits, tons of intensity but with a sense of freshness and fun. Again, could have stepped out of 2009. 93-94/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Prieure Lichine, Margaux 2010
Darker stewed damson fruits. Good tannic structure and mouthpuckering acidity, one to go the distance. Some precision engineering going on here, a good showing. 93+/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Dufort Vivens, Margaux 2010
Midnight velvet not violet, rich damson on the nose, with a little heat. Pretty good, but lacks the subtlety and finesse that the last two wines had in spades. Correct, good extraction, but lacks precision, 90/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch du Tertre, Margaux 2010
Vety dark ruby in colour, with some violet reflections. Like the nose, vanilla pods, cassis puree, lovely hints of savoury herbs that bring in an element of refreshing subtlety. Some seams of acidity in the mid palate that threatens to become dominant along with the alcohol, but it corrects itself on the finish. Good texture, elegant black fruits, hidden power. 92-93/100. Drink 2020-2032.
Ch Brane Cantanac, Margaux 2010
A rich, fairly developed nose, less hidden power, less coiled spring, more immediate pleasure. Slightly on the gourmet side, there is a lot to like here. 92/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Labegorce, Margaux 2010
Rich, full extraction, seems to miss the acidity of the year. This is big, with an instant hit of rich brambly fruits, but for me doesn't quite reach that wonderful acidity-fruit-tannin tunnel of the year. 88-89/100. Drink 2018-2025.
Ch Cantenac Brown, Margaux 2010
Plenty of matiere going on, taking full advantage of the powerfullly ripe fruits that the vintage gave winemakers, and sone thrilling acidity to send the black fruits on a search and rescue mission through your palate. The alcohol takes over just a little too much for me on the finish, but this continues a wonderful run of vintages for Cantanac Brown, dating back to 2008 for me. 92-93+/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Ferriere, Margaux 2010
Lovely colour and warm, inviting nose, a little drying on the finish, and the fruit is wide and frank rather than deep and concentrated. Potential. 90/100. Drink 2017-2027.