JP Moueix 2008s
Tasted at the JP Moueix offices in Libourne. This was a very good tasting, some excellent quality across the board. Across the Moueix properties, there were two troops of pickers, going in at separate times over an extended period to make the most of the Indian Summer. Over 110 people in the vines (going across their properties, very last was Belair). Across all properties, Moueix has started doing a little bit of malo in barrel before the primeurs week to be more presentable right now (makes no difference to longer term ageing, but smooths the tannins at this stage). Lowered the use of sulphur quite significantly, which you can see in terms of the deep colours that have been reached (‘achieved through taking risks, not lower temperatures’ they say!). All of these are heavily merlot based – ‘we are merlot people’.
Chateau Puy Blanquet, St Emilion Grand Cru
Lovely clean nose, dark smoky red fruits. Quite exotic for a grand cru. Enjoyable, good structure, if just ever so slightly drying on the finish. But the smokiness covers that up, and I think it is quite accomplished. Slightly lacking mid palate. 88-89.
Chateau la Serre, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Already tasted this morning at the grand cru classe tasting, and again this is showing very well. Enormous elegance and complexity, and very nice fruit indeed. Delicate, fresh fruit that is well balanced with the acidity and structure (normally no more than 30% new oak). This 7 hectare property is not owned by Moueix, but they have the exclusive distribution. Like this wine enormously. 94.
Chateau Magdelaine, Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe
Lovely star bright fruit both in colour and on the nose. Very ample nose, with cherries, cedar and ever so slightly smoked herbs. Sweet cherry on the palate. Slightly hot on the alcohol, very surprising as never find that with Magdelaine (some tanks went up to 14.3 degrees, but overall should be at around 13.5-14 degrees). But no doubting that this is going to age well, but seems atypical for this property. 90-91.
Chateau Belair-Monange (new name for Chateau Belair since Moueix purchase), Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe
Good extraction that manages to be quite full on without being too much, and without drying tannins, rather a lovely walnut edge. This is good quality. Nature of the vintage brings a lot more opulence than the 07. Very good cabernet franc in this one. Still crop thinning at the end of September. Extremely precise in terms of picking. 80% merlot, 20% cabernet farnc, over 12.5 hectares. This property was bought by Etabilissements JP Moueix in 2008. 92.
Chateau Plince, Pomerol
Gorgeous colour that manages to harness the primeur crimson without over-intensity. Softly spreading nose that has evident fruit, and is fairly firm. Very sweet fruit on the palate. Perhaps a touch too much oak, and this may be too sweet after a while, but I like it, it has good length and the tannins are well integrated. Good fleshy mid-palate. Plantings on the vineyard at this 10 hectare property is 72% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.2 90-91.
Chateau Lafleur Gazin, Pomerol
Again, lovely colour that is intense without being brooding. And charming cedary nose, with some of the Pomerol violets. There is a lovely sweetness to the fruit, and a very good length that is in no way drying, despite the evident structure to the tannins. Very good indeed. 80% merlot, 20% cabernet franc - and located, as the name would suggest, between Chateau Lafleur and Chateau Gazin! 92.
Chateau La Grave, Pomerol
For me less successful, with slightly less ripe fruit, slightly more drying tannins, and a little too over-extracted. There is nothing wrong with this, and it may develop well over the next year in barrel, but it has less ripe ‘matiere primaire’ than the others on display in this tasting. Located at the northeast corner of Pomerol, just next to the Lalande de Pomerol border, up to 85% merlot. 88.
Chateau Bourgneuf, Pomerol
This has sticky tannins, very good intensity but the first tannins in this tasting that you feel you have to get your boots on and wade through. I do like it, and feel it has enormous potential and age ahead of it, very good freshness and backbone. Some lovely liquorice, and toasted oak, quite a big wine. 90-91.
Chateau Certan Marzelle, Pomerol
Deep ruby red in colour. A more reserved nose than the others so far. Rich red cherries when you breathe in deeply and take your time. Back to the sweet fruit, although this is a little pinched. Not as successful in its execution, although there are good component parts. Less cohesive though, and the oak ends up standing out a little too much end of palate =- but certain to develop well over the next year. 88.
Chateau Latour a Pomerol, Pomerol
A very big, well extracted wine. There is very good fruit, and it feels restrained, like they consciously kept things quiet. It has real potential, but definitely needs a long ageing to soften up. Picking dates were very precise for such a small property (8 hectares. split into two plots) – carried out in different sorts, first on September 29 for very young vines, then 4 Oct, 8, then 12. This is a very interesting wine, with real complexity. 90% merlot, 10% cabernet franc, 50% new oak, bottled unfiltered. 90-91
Chateau La Fleur Petrus, Pomerol
Deep rich fruit, full intensity, and an intensely perfumed, spicy nose. Plenty of personality to this one, quite different flavour profile from the others, with more coffee, liquorice and rich fruits than the others. Very good extraction, and I like its kick. 14 hectares vineyard, from 29/9 again young vines on deep gravel up to a little every day right up til the 6 october. This vineyard is 9 hecatres, right next to Petrus. 92-94.
Chateau Hosana , Pomerol
We are moving to the deeper colour spectrum. Very much at the elder statesmen end of the Pomerol family tree. Elegant and structured. Chewy tannins, needs time and is just getting into its stride. Probably being shown way too soon, when it is not at all ready, and it must have been a serious beast before doing some malo in barrel. Like the chocolate layers in this, and think it has enormous potential. 93-94.
Chateau Providence, Pomerol
Rich deep purple, back to the ecclesiastical robes. Very rich, extracted wine. There is plenty of structure here, but slightly drying, and don’t find it has the same finesse and vigour as some of the others. Clearly a player, and clearly a long runner, but not the most exciting of the wines for me. Bought by the Moueix family in 2005, completetley renovated since. 90.
Chateau Certan de May, Pomerol
Again, a very different flavour profile. Much more floral, much more violet. Like this enormously. Nice smoky element also, cedary. The tannins are still enormous, but there is freshness and it is certain to improve over the next year. Plantings on the ground is 70% merlot, 25% cabernet franc, 5% cabernet sauvignon. This 5 hectare vineyard is right opposite Le Pin. 93-94.
Chateau Trotanoy, Pomerol
Gorgeous nose, and a regal, deep, rich colour. Silky smooth, very rich tannic structure. I prefer Certan the May, because it has more finesse, or rather I really like what I assume is the higher cabernet franc content. But this has a long life ahead of it, and is very classic, traditional Pomerol. 90% merlot, 10% caberbet franc. 91-92.
Chateau Petrus, Pomerol
Beautiful vibrant crimson, with a deep ruby core. Very perfumed, silky and sexy nose. Wonderfully nuanced and pleasurable. This is gorgeous in fact. Wonderful length, tight tannic structure, mouth-filling mid palate and plenty of different things going on, without any one being overly insistent. There are tannins and oak here, but neither is too much. Like it far better than the 07 Petrus. Upstanding. Still in the classic Pomerol range, it isn’t a new, modern wine. But the really remarkable part of it is the length, which goes on without becoming at all, even slightly, drying. Petrus extends over 9.5 hectares, and is planted to 95% merlot, 5% cabernet franc. 95-97.