Pauillac, Saint Estephe, Saint Julien, Haut Medoc 2008
Overall the northern Medoc has showed very well, lovely ripe cabernet, really good acidity, and far more homogenous than the southern Medoc. And perhaps because the cabernet reached such great ripeness, they didn’t feel the need to over-extract in the way that some Margaux and Pessac Leognan estates have been guilty of. There are a lot more chateaux in the 90s in this tasting than in others (except perhaps Pomerol) as this was easily one of my favourite tastings of the week.
Chateau d’Armailhac, Pauillac
Very rich, deep and stately purple colour, not the vibrancy of some but still great reflective colour. Gorgeous nose, which is slightly more open than the palate. Very good extraction, good strong tannins that are not drying, and a very deep layer of purple fruit is underpinned by the tight structure. I like this. Good length, although not especially powerful at the end. 54% cabernet sauvignon, merlot 29%, cabernet franc 15% and petit verdot 2% . 92.
Chateau Clerc Milon
Another lovely deep colour. This year, because of the late harvest, the polyphenols (and more particularly the anthocyanins) reached very high levels, so there is great colour extraction across the board in Bordeaux – the difference is that some estates have managed to harness it in to keep a classic elegant ‘Bordeaux’ colour, and this is a good example of it. The nose is very welcoming, very much fruit-centred, and rich damson plums. Slightly less cohesive for me on the palate than the Armailac. This has lovely fruit, and a very good structure, just the tannins are slightly harsher than for the preceding one. Still, good weight and length. 42% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, 16% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot. 89-90.
Le Petit Mouton
Medium to full intensity, with some vibrant purple reflections here, and again this gorgeous open nose. Some lovely mint and rich herbal notes in this, still a lot of fruit but it is slightly more savoury than the first two. Really enjoyable tannic structure, which is very present but not at all drying or intrusive. Not chewy tannins at all, very fine and tight. I think this is enormously enjoyable, with very good acidity and backbone, but again not intrusive. Well balanced. Lovely clean fruit finish. 92% cabernet sauvignon, 6% merlot. Clearly the cabernet reached beautiful maturity because this is so smooth and rich. 93-94 (I up-scored from 92-93 after sitting with this wine awhile, thinking about it, because it really is excellent).
Chateau Mouton Rothschild
This gorgeous colour again, which is rich and intense while still being ‘Bordeaux’. The nose has elements of spice and white pepper, and lovely aromatic freshness. Very good tannic structure again, more present than the Petit Mouton, and with a greater seam of freshness and acidity running through it, but still with so much fleshy damson fruits around to fill things out. This has gorgeous ‘matiere’, really plump and yet very elegant. Enormously enjoyable, without being in the slightest overdone. Very good, far better than the 2007, and for me better than the 2006. 83% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot – interesting that this has more merlot in than the second wine (this is fairly usual with Mouton, and last year was at 19%, but not true across many Medoc estates). 96-97.
Carruades de Lafite
The colour is deeper and more ecclesiastical than at Mouton. The nose also more extracted, more rich and intense in fruits, with more obvious tannins and extraction. But that doesn’t in any way take away from the wine; it has great finesse and power, and hard to believe that it is a second wine (perhaps the tannins are a touch weighty at the end, but it is typical of Lafite to be more difficult to taste at this stage than Mouton, for both the first and second wine). Cabernet sauvignon 51%, merlot 45%, petit verdot 3%, cabernet franc 1%. I like this very much, but it is less appealing than the Petit Mouton as a second wine for me – just doesn’t have the same smooth sweet finish, despite all the power being there, and an excellently weighty mid palate. 91-92.
Duhart Milon
The vibrancy of the fruit is clear from the first glance at the colour, and the very high polyphenols that have been extracted from the skins. The nose on this is slightly more closed. Rich black cherry and blackcurrant (rather than the damsons of Mouton), and some seams of vanilla and spicy cedary oak. I like the clearly defined flavours in this. Although the tannins are big and pretty chewy, there is a lovely rich primary fruit flavour – again it is lashings of black cherries, with some vanilla crème anglaise over the top. Good length, but the tannins need time to supple up and fully integrate. 73% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot. 92-93.
Chateau Lafite
The colour bounces along here, it really is lovely. First impressions pencil lead and lovely layers of mint, cedar and very rich fruit. The fruit perhaps doesn’t jump out at you, but it is quickly apparent that there is plenty of it, and that in the fullness of time it will reveal itself. Just a tiny pause, then a lovely plump fist of damsons, sour cherries, blackcurrants – and pencil shavings to stop anything from being too sweet. A real presence. Cabernet sauvignon 83%, merlot 13%, cabernet franc 4%. Picking dates from 1 October (merlot) until 16 October (petit verdot), with plenty of pauses to picking only at full and even ripeness. The tannins are very big, and I would think you have a good 15 years ahead before it starts to really open up, but this is a classic Lafite territory, and it pretty much owns this particular approach to winemaking. 96-98.
Pauillac de Chateau Latour, AOC Pauillac
This third wine of Chateau Latour is a lovely vibrant purple, and is light and fresh on the palate. It may not have complexity, but it is very charming, and the good ripe quality of this fruit bodes well for the rest of the grape harvest here. This wine was first produced in 1973, but was sporadic until 1990, since when it has been produced ever year, comprising the younger vines from outside the walls of the Grand Enclos, or vats that are not up to the first or second wine standard, and this year comprised 13% of the entire production of the vineyard. Blend is 45% cabernet sauvignon, 55% merlot. 87-88.
Forts de Latour
One of the most popular second wines in Bordeaux, produced from young vines within the Grand Enclos (less than 12 years old) or vats of the first wine that on retasting didn’t quite make the grade. 2008 saw 66.5% cabernet sauvignon, 31.5% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. Making up just under half of the entire production this year, this takes time to taste, and it starts to impress once you have given it time on the palate. It’s stately rather than exuberant, and grows in fruit only after time and swirling... a serious second wine, due to its high acidity and pronounced tannic structure. 91.
Chateau Latour, Pauillac
Making up 40% of the production in 2008, this wine is 94% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, 0.75% cabernet franc and 0.25% petit verdot. The percentage of first wine stays about the same most years, although they are buying some more vines to increase the production of Forts de Latour. Picking dates here ran from September 29th until October 7th for the merlots, with the final cabernet sauvignons coming in on October 19th. During the harvest, there were 190 people working in the vineyard, 90 of them pickers. The nose of this is very elegant. It reveals itself slowly but with great finesse. Lovely fruit, really shows yet again how the cabernet in the northern Medoc has done so well. Lovely sweetness to it, and a mouth-watering finish that is very seductive. The freshness and structure of this is really excellent, with high levels of acidity that give a slight austerity. Excellent, very clean and precise, and not at all intimidating as perhaps Lafite can be, with its huge tannins. Lovely and thought-provoking, with great finesse on the finish. ABV 13.48%. 97-98.
Tasting At Cos d’Estournel
Goulee, Medoc 2008
This is a terribly smooth, velvety colour, and you can practically see it slide around the glass, like Torville and Dean on ice. It has the glass-staining purple of the best primeurs. Lovely fruity fresh nose, and this is terribly attractive on the palate. There are very good firm tannins, very rich fruit, but a gorgeous seam of acidity underpinning the whole experience. Good length, and again you wait for something more difficult to kick in, but it is not doing so. Very good. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot, as reflected in the vineyard (there is no ‘second wine’ with Goulee). 28 hectares in total here. 2-3 October for merlot, 8-9 Oct for cabernet sauvignon. Really like this, it stays in your mouth with a very pleasant feel. Same team as Cos, but different vineyard, different winemaking facilities. Concept was to the rival the positioning and consistency of Cloudy Bay, but from Bordeaux. Early drinking. 92-93.
Pagoda de Cos, Saint Estephe 2008
This really builds on the nose of Goulee, but is more classic Medoc in its execution. There is enormous depth and a lovely concentration of blackcurrants and blackberries, and again this beautiful acidity, and really a very pleasant aftertaste, no harsh tannins at all. Both have cold soaking, but 100% gravity with the Cos cellars. This is really wonderful, 5-10 days of cold soak, slightly longer on the merlot than on the cabernet. This is modern in style, it has extraction, but there is nothing harsh, and definite firm ripe fruit with which to extract. Very good. 93.
Cos d’Estournel, Second Classified Growth, Saint Estephe 2008
A beautiful purple haze around the outer edge, inky depths that go almost right out to the rim, but with a brilliant purple ring right around the rim. This is one that takes its time, then steals up on you ever so gently with its lovely ripe fresh fruits. Beautiful tannins, very well worked, very well integrated, some chocolate, some rich ripe loganberries and blackcurrants, pure tight punch of fruit. This is excellent quality wine. Very precise – can clearly identify each different type of fruit almost as a separate strand. Big difference is that the entire process is by gravity – the pumping over is done also by gravity. The wine gets more and more interesting the longer it is in the mouth – there is such a depth and interest of flavour. I really like this, and can see it ageing enormously well. Really one of my favourite wines of the week, beautiful length in the mouth, revealing subtle changes of flavour as it progresses. 78% of the crop went into the first wine this year (last year was 55%), because of the ripe cabernet, and the new winery meaning more precise vinification, but even with this quality, it is unlikely that any of it will be released this year. 95-96.
TASTING AT PICHON COMTESSE
Chateau Bernadotte, Haut Medoc
Owned by Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande since 1997 and therefore Louis Roederer since 2007. The full polyphenol treatment again with the colour here. The fruit tastes a little flimsy (but this was the first wine tasted after Latour!), with some pleasant crab apple which is sweet and a little tart on the finish. Lively and fresh. 86-87.
Chateau Haut Beausejour, Saint Estephe
This was part of the Louis Roederer stable before they acquired Pichon Comtesse – acquired by Jean-Claude Rouzaud, oenologist and president of Champagne Louis Roederer, back in 1992. Nice cedary finish to the wine, and good extraction, even if ever so slightly pinched. Fresh fruit though, and very vibrant. Again a slight crab apple taste, which I like, combined with blackberries and a cedary nose. It doesn’t have enormous complexity, but dances nicely along. 87-88.
Chateau de Pez, Saint Estephe
An excellent estate in the northern part of Saint Estephe, near to Montrose. The blackcurrant leaf here is very vibrant, and there is plenty of lovely complexity going on here also. Cedary, slightly smoky oak which is very attractive. Good structure and tight fruit tannins, very present but not at all drying, and there is gorgeous acidity that underpins things and gives it great potential for the next few years. 90.
Reserve de la Comtesse
33% cab sauvignon, 50% merlot, 12% cab franc, 5% petit verdot. Spicy rich pepper, really tingles at the end of the tongue, and keeps things lively for a big finish. I like this a lot, really plenty of character, and still with fairly exuberant fruit. The structure is very precise and well placed, as I have found fairly common with the 2008s in this part of the region. A very restrained by enjoyable wine. 92.
Chateau Pichon de la Comtesse, Second Classified Growth, AOC Pauillac
I love the colours of these 2008s, rich without being foreboding. This wine is 63% cabernet sauvigon, 29% merlot, 3% cab franc, 5% petit verdot. From the first sip, this is utterly gorgeous. Truly mouthfilling, with lovely density of fruit, and great elegance that comes from the freshness that dances through the palate. And this just goes on and on in the mouth, perfectly balanced between alcohol, fruit and acidity. Excellent quality wine, with clearly a very long life ahead of it. In my original tasting notes, I repeated gorgeous at this point! Technical director Thomas Do Chi Nam was present at the tasting, and said after a few atypical years, they felt this was a real return to a classic style of Comtesse that they are now looking to maintain. 95-97.
BLIND UGC Tasting at Chateau Belgrave
Chateau Malescasse, AOC Haut Medoc
Vineyard located between Margaux and Saint Julien, in the commune of Lamarque (where you get the ferry over to Blaye). Formerly owned by the Tesseron family, now by Alcatel Alsthom. The first one in this blind tasting, and straight away into this beautifully vibrant purple. A very lovely wine to start the tasting (and the day). Blackcurrant leaf, some oak giving cedary, rosewood aromas. The wine is well structured, and well balanced, and the tannins although ever so slightly drying, are never veering over into being imposing. This has elegance. 90.
Chateau La Tour Carnet, Fourth Classified Growth, Haut Medoc
Bernard Magrez’s property, with 48 hectares of vines. I have tasted this twice this week, once blind here, and the other time at the Thunevin tasting at La Dominique in St Emilion, when I knew what it was. Both times I enjoyed the wine. Somehow the polypenols in the northern medoc seem more restrained, more sensible and elegant than those in the south. This has rich cocoa in it, quite a lot of new oak, but with some restraint. On the palate this oak is evident too, and gives it a very good structure, with a slightly drying finish, but that is compensated for by the lovely rich mid-palate. 88-90.
Chatea u de Lamarque, AOC Haut Medoc
Very different nose from anything else tasted so far, slightly marzipan nose. There is good depth to this, but needs some time to integrate better. Still, this has the juicy fruit finish which is always a pleasure. A slightly difficult wine to work out, has potential but not fully realised. 87-88.
Chateau Coufran, AOC Haut Medoc
Gorgeous colour, truly deep rich and velvety, you want you run your fingers along this!! Pencil lead and cedar on the nose. Very silky also on the palate, they have worked very hard to smooth these tannins, and it has real elegance and depth of flavour. I really like this, only problem is perhaps very slightly short? And very slightly drying at the end? It isn’t perfect, but it gets into the 90s... just. Predominately merlot in this wine, incredibly up to 85%, even though the terroir here is largely gravel. 90.
Chateau Citran, AOC Haut Medoc
A large cru bourgeois estate at 90 hectares, owned by the Taillan Groupe. Medium intensity, and a lovely blush of purple. Not a furious blush this one, more of a charming purple. The nose is open and sweet, with some lovely ripe cherries evident. Good juicy mouth-watering fruit. Does lack a little complexity compared to some of the others in this line up, but it is very nicely put together. Ever so slightly green undertones, but well covered up. It’s very pleasant. 89-90.
Chateau Cantermerle, Fifth Classified Growth, AOC Haut Medoc
Owned by a French insurance company, Groupe SMABTP (Les Mutuelles d'Assurance du Bâtiment et des Travaux Public) since 1981 (the first of a rash of insurance companies to buy Medoc properties).This is perhaps slightly deeper flavour than some others, but they just seem to have been more relaxed and gentle with their extractions up here, perhaps because they had riper fruit and so could afford to be. Very sweet black cherries, with gorgeous acidity that really lifts the palate, and nicely packs out the mid-palate. Very good quality, and enormous elegance. 91.
Chateau Camensac, Fifth Classified Growth, AOC Haut Medoc
More mocha and coffee on the nose, and ever so slightly less vibrant purple, more the ecclesiastical robes. Smoky, and very attractive. This is another success. It has elegance and staying power, and very good structure without being overpowering. There is plenty of stuff in here that is going to age well, and the power of the black fruits bodes very well for its evolution. 91-92.
Chateau Belgrave, Fifth Classified Growth, AOC Haut Medoc
Owned by Dourthe, this very attractive estate has been subject to recent investment. One of the richest in colour so far, very intense, with lovely reflections around the rim. Plenty of oak on the nose, but also plenty of deep ripe fruits. This is more worked than some on display here today, clearly very confident but not quite as much unforced loveliness. Very good, very rich, but not necessarily charming. There is no racking on this wine after it goes in barrel, they age on the fine lees, but without battonage either, as want a very clear wine (which I guess is why this vibrant purple). 55% cab sauvignon, 5% cab franc, 30% merlot. 91.
Chateau Beaumont, AOC Haut Medoc
A cru bourgeois property. They have taken their foot off the extraction pedal, kept things a little more subtle. The nose though is a little underpowered, either closed or there is just not that much there. The end on this is also quite pinched and drying, even if there are some good elements in it. Generally speaking, tastes a bit flung together, like they were still blending last week. 85-86.
Chateau Talbot, Fourth Classified Growth, AOC Saint Julien
Ruby red rim, deep red core. Blackberries and redcurrants on the nose. This is restrained, and may be a little underpowered, but it takes time in the mouth to come into its own, and does have great charm. This is creamy, has lovely notes of vanilla, cedar and spice. Not one of the heaviest on display, but a good charm. Usually up to 60% cabernet sauvignon in the mix. 60% new oak. 90-91.
Chateau Saint Pierre, Fourth Classified Growth, AOC Saint Julien
Very rich and powerful in colour. Beautiful purple, one of those colours you can’t believe they get naturally! Powerful punch of fruit on the nose also, clearly a sexy wine that has a swagger. This is good. There is that uplifting chord of acidity, and some very strong but well rounded tannins. If I have to pick, it is not fully integrated and there is a very slight touch of astringency on the finish, but a lot to play with here, and one that can clearly develop well. 92-93.
Chateau Leoville Poyferre, AOC Saint Julien
Deep rich red rather than purple (must ask one day how you get the different colours in terms of vinification). This has a very sweet oak nose, black cherries with vanilla crème anglaise. Slightly smoky, in a very attractive way, and the fruit is clear and vibrant and very well defined on the palate. This is excellent, really sings, very good quality. 93-94.
Chateau Leoville Barton, Second Classified Growth, AOC Saint Julien
These just have such depth, such clear polyphenol content, I know I keep saying it but it is remarkable when you look at them in sequence. Yesterday’s Margaux, Moulis and Listrac line up was more brooding, these are wonderfully fresh and ripe in colour. Very attractive nose, and there is good fruit on the palate. It doesn’t rise up in quite the same way as some of these, but excellent matiere, very good acidity and good potential. 92-93.
Chateau Langoa Barton, Third Classiied Growth, AOC Saint Julien
Rich stately ecclesiastical again, we are in st peter’s land. Coffee and mocha on the nose, some eucalyptus. A touch disappointing on the palate, only really because the standard is so high in this tasting so far. This is good, but it is flatter than some of the others, because seems lower acidity. Good firm fruit though. But sturdy. 90.
Chateau Lagrange, Third Classified Growth, AOC Saint Julien
Lovely bright reflective tones, although as purplish as some. Ever so slightly hot on the nose (so that means some volatile aromas?). Good, but there are drying tannins here, and the great power of the fruit seems to be a bit over-extracted, which is the first one that I really noted that on, unlike in Margaux etc where I found that a fairly common fault. 88.
Chateau Gruaud Larose, Second Classified Growth, AOC Saint Julien
Maybe I’ll just mention the colour if it’s bad! All of these are lovely. Like the sweet, smoky, cedary nose, with some rich ripe black cherries and blackcurrants. Lovely aromatic nose. Good depth of fruit, although they could maybe have gone further, and the tannins need some more work to soften up, but of course there is time for that over the next year or so. Good length though (again I am noting how these wines take time to reveal themselves, and often the tasting note you start with is not necessarily the one you end up with). This is a thought-provoking wine, and I am starting to love it! 90.
Chateau Branaire Ducru, Fourth Classified Growth, AOC Saint Julien
Far more purply reflections. Vanilla, mocha, mint on the nose, it’s good. On the palate, there are lovely elements. Just perhaps a bit short on the mid-palate. But nothing harsh in here, nothing jarring, and it is very silky and sweet. Just could do with more oomph. 91
Chateau Beychevelle, Fourth Classified Growth, AOC Saint Julien
Very intensely coloured, more so than many. This has a charmingly smooth, understated but complex nose. Good acidity that underpins things. It takes a moment for the fruit to kick in, which is a bit disconcerting, but it is there. Good butterscotch and mocha. And very nice finish, which tapers off elegantly but is still there for a good long while with these sweet butterscotch flavours. 92.
Chateau Pontet Canet, Fifth Classified Growth, AOC Pauillac
This is a good one. Certainly from the nose – it has real intensity, real depth of flavour, gorgeous rich and full of fruit – and the colour has the purple, vibrant shock of purple that you love in a primeur sample. Very long life ahead of this, it is going to age beautifully – the requisite fruit, very good tannic structure that is fully evident and weighty but not at all green, and reams of lovely acidity. Excellent quality wine. 94-95.
Chateau Lynch Moussas, Fifth Classified Growth, AOC Pauillac
Owned by Philippe Casteja, this has been subject to investment in recent years, but has a patchy history. This has a very different nose, although we are still in full on gorgeous rich purple territory visually. A nose that spreads, and clamours for attention. Tobacco leaf, some sweet new oak. This is good, and has plenty of life in it. The tannins need time to round out, they are not exactly drying, but quite unwelcoming and a little pinched. 90.
Chateau Lynch Bages, Fifth Classified Growth, AOC Pauillac
Rich, deep blush red. I like this nose, there is liquorice, smoky chicory, lots of lovely aromas going on. Very impressive palate also. Good weight, good fruit and lovely acidity. The structure is also very well defined. Well worked, tight tannins. This has got very good life ahead of it, and sure it will be worth time investment. 94. (I tasted this also just with the Cazes wines the week before primeurs, not blind, and gave it 93-94)
Chateau Haut Bages Liberal, Fifth Classified Growth, AOC Pauillac
One of those picture perfect primeur recipe colours! Very good matiere, as I have noted on numerous occasions, and some juicy mouth filling fruit. Vanilla pods and crème on this one. Not as complex perhaps as some of the others here, and yet there is a real likeability to it, and I like the tobacco edge to the whole experience. 90-91.
Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse, Fifth Classified Growth, AOC Pauillac
Rich like Dubai before the credit crunch! I like the precision of this nose. Lovely ripe fruits, but not too showy. Lovely sweet ripe fruit, very good acidity and creamy oak, excellent structure, good notes of coffee and chocolate, and a minty freshness at the end. One of my favourites (Denis Dubourdieu consults here). 93-94.
Chateau Croizet Bages, 5th Classified Growth AOC Pauillac
Slightly flatter purple colour. Nice and intense on the palate, but this lacks some of the skip of the others. It plods rather than runs. Perhaps a very classic Bordeaux, and it does have very good structure, but could do with a more racy acidity. 88.
Chateau Batailly, AOC Pauillac
Owned by Philippe Casteja, this is the wine that is mentioned in the new James Bond novel Devil May Care! Beautiful rich colour, and lovely fruit. I was going to take a sip of water, but have held off to let this really flood through my mouth. Maybe a touch under-played with the acidty, but there is plenty of freshness here, and in fact it increases as it goes on. Another of those slow burners than 08 seems to specialise in. Good. 91.
Chateau Phelan Segur, AOC Saint Estephe
Owned by cru bourgeous president Thierry Gardinier, this is a favourite in the line-up today. Lovely colour, terribly decadent and rich, like zsa zsa gabor. Lovely plump black fruits on the nose. Perhaps a touch aggressive on the palate, there is enormous potential here and those rich seams of acidity that mean this is a wine for the long haul. Great, but needs time. 91.
Chateau Ormes de Pez, AOC Saint Estephe
Part of the Cazes stable, this is very deep purple, and a very confident new oak nose, good smouldering fire going on here, as Wii fit would say. Enormous extraction, very powerful tannins and big structure, that is made interesting by the flesh black fruit and the mouth-watering finish. 90. (enjoyed this also when tasted along the other Bages wines, when I gave it 89-90).
Chateau Lafon Rochet, AOC Saint Estephe
Owned by Michel Tesseron, this is the property with both yellow label and cheerful yellow-pained chateau. For the 2008, we are again venturing into deep purple/black wine. The nose is redcurrant rather than blackcurrant. Many of these wines have big flavours and a great future ahead of them, and this one is no exception. Nice mint and eucalyptus here, more savoury than many on display. 91.
Chateau Cos Labory, Fifth Classified Growth, AOC Saint Estephe
There is lovely cedar wood on the nose here, and on the palate it is gorgeously rich. Not the most glorious here, and there needs to be greater integration of flavours and tannins, but plenty to shout about, and it is up against some stiff competition. 18 hectares, 55% cabernet sauvignon. 89.