Pauillac, Saint Estephe, Saint Julien
I loved these appellations in 2010 – cabernet sauvignon thrived in the warmth, and the acidity gave it such balance and poise.
Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac 2010
50% cabernet sauvignon, 42.5% merlot, petit verdot 2.4%, cabernet franc 5.1%Incredibly aromatic nose, because all the cabernet franc went into Carruades this year, not into Lafite (despite Chevallier voting in its favour, but the seven man committee could not agree). Gives a wonderful delicacy to the nose, and some beautiful violets. All of the wines are around 13.5% alcohol. This is taking a little time to open up, you can tell that they have upped the selection and the density of fruit, and you will need to wait a while before drinking. 55% of overall production went into Carruades this year. 93/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Duhart Milon, Pauillac 2010
This wine should offer a slower rise in price than Lafite but still enormous pleasure and potential. It gives an immediate hit of plum and intense damson, and is rich in structure and power, with concentrated liquorice and savoury herbs. 73% cabernet sauv, 27% merlot. Again approx 13.5%. 95/100. Drink 2022-2042.
Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac 2010
40% first wine, very similar to last year (2005 was the highest at 49%, but that is rare). Less aromatic on the nose than the Carruades, because no cabernet franc, and of course built to last. 87.2% cabernet sauvignon, 12.8% merlot (last year was 82.5% cab sauvignon, 17% merlot and 0.5 petit verdot). Again this bright purple rim, but that dissolves within a fraction of a centimetre into rich, inky, black fruit. 20mm of rain in June, July and August in 2010. Slighty more stormy in 2009, even if overall rainfall not that different. Chevallier: ‘the figures are very similar between the two vintages, but the end result very different. Last year more opulent, this year more fresh fruit on the finsh’. A mentholy finsh, like the best Lafites. This has a weightless quality, very fine tannins, just delicious. Again, the length is remarkable. Some dark spices here. The balance is seriously impressive, which gives it this weightless quality because not one element is over powering. Expect normal production, so 20,000 cases. 99/100. Drink 2025-2050.
Chateau Pontet Canet, Pauillac 2010
2010 is the first year that this estate has been certified both organic and biodynamic, and once again proves why it has leapt up in terms of reputation over the past decade. No leaf thinning, no green harvesting, both contributed towards the grapes being protected from the heat. Same blend as 2009 (64% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot). Such a vibrant colour, just jumps out of the glass. Incredibly aromatic on the nose. This is violet, plum, rosemary, black cherries, pure cassis, all clearly defined. They – of course – start the malolactic naturally here, and wait for each individual vat to start with its own natural yeast, but still had no problems with late malo, and were finished by November. 80% of the overall production goes into the first wine. 96/100. Drink 2020-2045.
Pauillac (de Chateau Latour), Pauillac 2010
55% cabernet sauvignon, 44.5% merlot, 0.5% cab franc, 13.9% abv, 4% of overall production. Very ripe fruit, this has quite tight tannins though. 10-15% new oak. after some time in the glass, there is a pleasant smoky quality to the nose, things are tight and rich, and this is clearly a step above what you would typically call ‘a third wine’. 91/100. Drink 20118-2028.
Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac 2010
The second wine of Chateau Latour has been going from strength to strength in quality over recent years, and displays the same precision engineering you see in Latour itself – you move through the experience in stages, it is only just beginning to unfurl its limbs. Grape selection has been tightened in 2010, and there is a clear density and definition to the rich black fruits. 72.5% cabernet sauvignon, 25.5% merlot, 0.5% 2% petit verdot. 94-95/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Ch Latour, Pauillac 2010
90.5% cabernet sauvignon, 8.5% merlot, 0,5% for both petit verdot and cabernet franc. 36% of grand vin, blended the first two weeks of March, as is typical. This needs time and concentration to really get behind. Many, many different strands of flavour, so powerful. Such precision of fruit, so intense. Have horses working 10 to 15 hectares of vines within the L’Enclos, have been starting biodynamic farming since 2007, horses since winter 2009/2010, based below the chateau, in the vines near to the Gironde. Not all L’Enclos of in 1st wine, generally of the 47 hectares of L’Enclos, certain parcels go into Forts and the very young vines go into Pauillac. Just such stunning expression of cabernet sauvignon, irresistable power. Demands concentration – you keep going back and it reveals a little more each time. Last year 38.3% first wine, this year 36%. 98/100. Drink 2025-2050.
Ch Fourcas Borie, Listac 2010
70% merlot, 15% petit verdot 15% cabernet sauvignon. Vineyard is upper part of Listrac. Unusual to have such high merlot in Listrac, but they believe their soils are too cold for the cab sauvingon. Deep black spicy quality, slightly puckering, its quite an odd combination to have so much merlot and so much petit verdot. 30% new oak, rest one year. 88/100. Drink 2020-2032.
Ch Lalande Borie, Saint Julien 2010
In south of St julien, bought from Lagrange in the 70s. 50% cabernet sauvignon 40 %merlot and 10% cabernet franc, very well knitted together, very fresh, powerful backbone, really enjoyable, better for me than the 2009, 37% new oak, the rest in one year old barrels. 91/100. Drink 2020-2034.
La Croix de Beaucaillou, Saint Julien 2010
2010 is a good year for smart buying of the second wines, and this is one of the best – and offers earlier drinking than many Left Banks this year. Made from its own separate plots of vines, it is due to sport a new label for this vintage, signalling the investment that has been put in to upping the quality (the designer is rumoured to be a famous British female artist). And something is clearly working – 85% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, pure violet in colour, rich and sweet on the palate, joyful. 125,000 bottles, 20% less over the whole production because of careful sorting and uneven flowering. 60% new oak. 94+/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint Julien 2010
90% new oak approx. The first wine here just blew me away. Fabulous classical Ducru. 90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot. This is utterly gorgeous cabernet sauvignon, the tannins and acidity make your mouth pucker, but it is worth the ride as you are shot right through to the fruit, which is so pure. Easily better then the 2009. Such a long life ahead. 98/100. Drink 2020-2045.
Goulee, Medoc 2010
80% cab, 20% merlot. They always manage to get the smear it over your glass purple colour here. Rich, velvety and rather lovely on the nose. Very concentrated fruit, lacks a little elegance and the alcohol seems higher than the stated 13.74% to me. 89-90/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Pagodes de Cos, Saint Estèphe 2010
62% cab, 38% merlot, lovely rich flavours, but a high 14.13% alcohol, and again I can feel it. 45% of the production went into the second wine. 91/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Cos d'Estournel, Saint Estèphe 2010
78% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 2% cabernet franc, 1% petit verdot,. Jean Guillaume thinks 2010 more restrained and classical than the 2009, which I think we can all agree was more voluptuous. At 14.5% alcohol, this is again a huge wine, as has become the signature of the estate over the past five years. I have to say that I am swimming against the tide with this one. Perhaps it was the day I tasted (although I followed it by Montrose and Calon, and both I loved) but I felt it lacked the joyous sense of fun of 2009, and got dragged down by its own desire to be more serious and intellectual. There was lovely mouth-watering juicy fruit on the attack, but it tasted so far from a Saint Estephe that I found it hard to love. Great length, clearly needed time and attention to taste, look forward to trying this again once it has started to stretch its limbs. 55% grand vin. Prats: ‘We don’t have a third wine, no, I don't play that game’. 94-95/100. Drink 2022-2040.
Château Capbern-Gasqueton, Saint Estèphe 2010
As of this year, the wine is being made in a new winery with 37 vats relating to the 37 plots of vines. More approachable clearly, 27% merlot, 73% cabernet sauvignon, with 10% press wine for backbone, I like this, very fresh, very focused. 93+/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Chateau Calon Segur, Saint Estèphe 2010
Full of St Estèphe character, with wonderful freshness, 86% cabernet sauvignon, 2% petit verdot, 12% merlot. Half the usual production this year, 80,000 bottles, instead of 160,000 bottles last year, so the price will inevitably rise, but small quantities will also make it sought after in years to come. 13.8% alcohol, but kept in check. 95-96/100. Drink 2020-2040.
La Dame de Montrose, Saint Estèphe 2010
36% of production, 64% cab sauvignon, 36% merlot. Lovely fresh fruit, very enjoyable. 91/100. Drink 2018-2035.
Chateau Montrose, Saint Estèphe 2010
64% of production went into the first wine this year, with a blend of 53% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, cabernet franc 9% and 1% petit verdot. This is the first year with the extra 20 hectares of vines bought from Phelan Segur, and is slightly higher in merlot as a result. Again, this truly captures what you want from a St Estephe, plenty of structure and power, but fresh and elegant. As with last year, this has confidence and personality, a great wine. Harvested from September 27th to October 15th, with 45hl/h 95+/100. Drink 2020-2045.
Le Petit Mouton, Pauillac 2010
Utterly captivating nose, charming purity of fruit. Very tight tannic structure, this clearly is built for lasting. 26% of the production into this wine (49% goes into Mouton this year, then the rest into their third (DBPR vin de negoc, much of it into a wine called Baron Nathaniel, that also has the declassified vines of Armailhac and Clerc, so a good tip). Very smooth fruits, not quite the generosity of last year, but certainly the length, this has an uplift on the finish. Polished fruits at the end, and a good 75 second before it tips anywhere. 68% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, 8% cab franc 92-93/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Ch d'Armailhac, Pauillac 2010
Deep cherry red, with violet reflections, medium intensity colour, not a monster. Wonderfully sweet cherry and blackcurrant on the attack, with a subtle tunnel of acidity coming through in the mid palate, plenty of mouth watering fruit. Wonderful length, and the perfect 2010 mix of hidden power and a minty freshness from the excellent acidity. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot. The tannic structure holds you very tight in the mid palate.. 94/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Clerc Milon, Pauillac 2010
For my money, Clerc Milon is looking wonderful this year. Full of power, this has the minty edge, the tannins and the freshness to really lift you up and carry you through. About 30% down on volume from last year. 94-95+/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 2010
We are in rich, stately ruby territory here. This has a powerful, multi layered generosity of fruit, but pinned ferociously into place by a backbone of acidity. The tannins are clear and present, but as with Lafite and Margaux, they have a delicacy and grace that just sets them apart. This is a wine to truly take your time over, 94% cabernet sauvignon, 6% merlot. Wow!! The highest level of Cabernet Sauvignon on record, 88% last year. Thrilling, stunning length, my mouth is singing with this, delicacy and grace but generosity of fruit and huge length. Utterly gorgeous, has persistence but it builds in the motuh as it goes, getting more and more intense over several minutes. About 20% down from last year, from small berries and early coulure on the merlot. 99-100/100. Drink 2025-2050.
Chapelle de Pontensac, Medoc 2010
56% merlot, 31% cabernet sauvignon, 12% cabernet franc, 1% petit verdot. Lovely rich, ripe colours, and a charming, pretty wine, again much better than last year for me. This is final blend (as for all the Delon wines). 13.2% 89/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Chateau Potensac, Medoc 2010
Going from strength to strength under the Delon ownership, I was particularly impressed by the entire range this year (including their Pomerol, Chateau Nenin). 13.6% alcohol, 42% merlot, 37% cabernet sauvignon, 21% cabernet franc, 5% petit verdot. Really enjoyable, with fresh fruit, black cherry and loganberry, some wet stone minerality, again it is a pretty take on 2010, and very pleasurable. 93-94/100. Drink 2020-2030.
Le Petit Lion, Saint Julien
The second wine of Leoville Las Cases, made from the young vines of the main estate. 52% cabernet sauvignon, 38% merlot, 5% cabernet franc and the same again of petit verdot. There isn’t usually petit verdot in this wine, but the grapes have been added here instead of Clos de Marquis. It gives a powerful edge to the wine this year, pumps it up a little. This is again enjoyable. 13.7% 92-93/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Clos de Marquis, Saint Julien
75% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot, 8% cabernet franc. Gosh, serious tannic structure in the Clos de Marquis, this is an excellent wine, really deft on the finish, this is excellent quality, truly a wine that can more than stand on its own. 93-95/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Chateau Léoville Las Cases, Saint Julien 2010
Stunning, utterly gorgeous, a classic wine from my favourite appellation of 2010. 75% new oak, 3,56pH, translating into wonderfully high acidity underpinning the tannins, and giving a boost to the fresh fruit flavours, wrapped in a powerful structure and incredibly suave texture. One of the wines of the vintage for me - full of power and immediate impact, but with charm. 99+/100. Drink 2022-2045.
(UGC Tasting at Grand Puy Ducasse, plus at Pichon Baron)
Chateau de Lamarque, Haut Medoc 2010
Restrained on the nose, but this has fierce tannins on the palate, and coming from Leoville (hardly fair of course!), they are fairly untamed. Chunky finish, this is powerful, but lacks finesse. 88/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Chateau Coufran, Haut Medoc 2010
Beautiful en primeur purple here. Again, a very taut tannic structure, a touch of green tannins right on the finish, this is keeping a lot back, potential, but very closed, not a lot of fruit evident right now. 89-90/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch la Tour Carnet, Haut Medoc 2010 (Classified 4th Growth)
Rich purple, violet reflections, sweet oak on the nose, a touch more contemporary in take from Bernard Magrez's Medoc outpost. The charred blackberry crumble gives depth, but it's not entirely cohesive yet. Still, can imagine they are pleased with this, and certainly potential. 91/100. Drink 2020-2030.
Chateau Beaumont, Haut Medoc 2010
Silky, brooding black velvet in colour, surprises me that the nose is fairly open. Bit sour on the finish, shame as some potential here, the fruit drops off too quickly though, and the finish is all about tannins and alcohol. Saving grace is the length of the finish, which tapers upwards. 53% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, 4% cabernet franc, 3% petit verdot (planted). 88-89/100. Drink 2020-2030.
Chateau Belgrave, Haut Medoc 2010 (Classified 5th Growth)
Again gorgeous colour and texture, some sour fruit but here it is well controlled, and lifts up on the finish, with touches of menthol. A good show. 41% cabernet sauvignon, 51% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot. Harvested from 29 September to 18th October. 91-92/100. Drink 2020-2032.
Chateau Cantemerle, Haut Medoc 2010 (Classified 5th Growth)
These are stunningly rich in colour, near perfection visually right now (5% petit verdot in this wine, which of course adds huge amounts of colour, although 2010 has managed to get depth of anthocyanins from all varieties). An interesting mixture of reserved and in your face. This is not giving much away, it is far more about texture right now than anything else. The alcohol is obvious though, it's a big wine, clearly again a chai-pleaser, needs a lot of time to unfold. 89-92/100. Drink 2020-2032.
Chateau Citran, Haut Medoc 2010
Lovely dark spice on the nose, some good chewy tannins, plenty of cassis and blackberry fruits, again a black pepper spice coming through. Big, concentrated, but well balanced. 93+/100. Drink 2020-2030.
Chateau de Camensac, Haut Medoc 2010 (Classified 5th Growth)
Rich purple, violet hints, quite an unusual nose for the Medoc, real violets coming through, crushed flowers. Not quite as imoressive on the palate on the attack, but as you sit through the mid palate, there is a ton of interest, crushed pebbles, blackcurrant coulis. Lacks a touch of panache, definitely more about the power, but potential in spades. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot. 92-93+/100. Drink 2020--2035.
Chateau Malescasse, Haut Medoc 2010
I’m again enjoying this nose, and the colour. Slightly smoky. Big, intense fruit and alcohol hit on the first attack, that clears, but you have to hang in there. 88-89/100. Drink 2019-2029.
Chateau Gloria, Saint Julien 2010
Beautiful violet rim, spicy and inviting nose. A hit of sweet fruit on the attack, leading to a tunnel of tannin and freshness in the mid-palate. Clearly there is alcohol, and clearly built to last, but with grace. Should be great value, as unclassified but wondeful quality, from owner Jean-Louis Triaud. 94+/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Saint Pierre, Saint Julien 2010
A stately ruby colour, with black cherry and smoke on the nose. I like the palate, seems very cohesive, some interesting complexity of coffee beans and black fruits, and good silky texture. 92-94/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Beychevelle, Saint Julien 2010
A wine that is creating increasing interest in China this has a powerful punch of tannins, again saved by a juicy acidity scooping them up in the mid-palate. Great finish, seriously persistent, with mouthwatering touches and tannins that inch along, revealing themselves tantalisingly slowly. 94+/100
Chateau Branaire Ducru, Saint Julien 2010
Plum, damsons spiced with vanilla and cardammon pods. Slightly gentler on the attack, and again the alcohol gives a slight sourness to the tannins on mid palate. This has clear breeding, plenty to enjoy. Again just love the persistence on the finish, and eventually (a good minute or more in), you are lead upwards towards a soft fruit finish. 93-94/100. Drink 2019-2035.
Chateau Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien 2010
Silky, viscous in texture, deep rich velvet tones, sweet charred oak on the nose. This has power but no harshness, intense fruit flavours, well-knitted together tannins, silky texture, excellent quality wine. 94+/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Lagrange, Saint Julien 2010
These wines really demand time and concentration. This one is a touch hot, and prickles a little on the back of the throat. Can feel the power and the fruit, and second time round you can work through that initial hit. 92-93/100. Drink 2020-2034.
Chateau Léoville Barton, Pauillac 2010
The days when this was truly a value wine are being left behind, but it still offers wonderful pleasure, at a price that remains reasonable compared to some of its neighbours. Rich, pure, vibrant colour. Great whoosh of the holy trinity of acidity-tannin-fruit here, very polished. 94-95/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint Julien 2010
Glass-staining, full and rich. Vanilla and blackcurrant on the nose and palate, this is not as effortlessly brilliant as in 2009 for me, but still full of power and impact. Clearly well made, heaps of rich fruits and full-on tannins, but is holding on tight right now. For me, Leoville tops it this year. 92-93+. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Talbot, Saint Julien 2010
Rich matiere, chewy tannins. All the St Juliens this year are good, but this falls in the chewy, slightly mouth stripping tannins, the acidity is not whooshing in here, but on the finish, there are still dark fruits, they have hung in there, and do their job well. 91-92/100. Drink 2020-2038.
Chateau Leoville Poyferre, Saint Julien 2010
Liquid velvet again. Black chocolate, black coffee, big and strong, but suave and fresh. Excellent, great length. Another excellent year from a chateau that is doing all the right things. 94-95/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Lynch Moussas, Pauillac 2010
Lacks the definition and depth of fruit to fully hurdle over the alcohol. Clear length, and the acidity again arrives in mid palate to save the day, but not one of my favourites. 89-90/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Haut Bages Liberal, Pauillac 2010
Real elegance and complexity on the nose, lovely texture, some spicy plum, rich and fresh. Slightly gum-hurting on the acidity, it needs to embed with the fruit a little more, but definitely potential. 91/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Batailley, Pauillac 2010
Again, tannic power is reaching bursting point here, these are wines for the boys, liquid equivalent of Lamborghinis or (if you prefer not to flatter their egos so much!) souped up Escorts. Prefer the understements in St Julien personally, although clearly this is a well made wine and will go the distance. On the finish, it rewards with a gentle mouth-peppering spice, and some juicy fruit. Quality. 92-93/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse Pauillac 2010
Another hurly burly colour, although like the purity of plum on the nose (greengage in the better Pomerols, damson over here). I get some alcohol coming off this though, and jeez it is ferocious on rhe palate, tears through your mouth with a wall of tannins. Clearly a big chateau playing at the top of its game. 93-94+/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Ch Croizet Bages Pauillac 2010
In comparison to some here, this feels gentler. Some rich spice on the attack, deep intensity of fruit and tannin, less of a monster. However, there is a touch of bitterness and under-ripe tannins on the finish. Shame, as this chateau produced an excellent 2009, and it has dipped down a little this year. 88-90/100. Drink 2020-2030.
Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste, Pauillac 2010
One of those wines with the cliff top pause, where it attacks, then hangs thrillingly in mid-air, then gets going again. A powerhouse, putting on it black gloves and menancingly flexing its knuckles, a John Malcovich wine. But good, great texture, strong liquorice and blackcurrant. 94/100. Drink 2022-2045.
Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac 2010
Again, the massive tannins that are a signature of the vintage, with every element pumped up to full volume. Wet stone minerality, smothered in blackcurrant, clearly built to last. Lay this down and forget about it for a while, then sit back and enjoy. 94-95/100. Drink 2021-2045.
Chateau Pichon Comtesse, Pauillac 2010
Some subtle floral notes on the nose, this has rich damson fruits, good structure, with liquorice and sweet spices coming in the mid-palate. Yet again a wine where you greet the fresh acidity like a long-lost friend – expect this wine to last upwards of 40 years. 94-95/100. Drink 2025-2040.
Ch Pibran, Pauillac 2010
50/50 merlot, cab sauv, 5000 cases production, no coulure on the merlot so overall quantity similar to last year. Good tannins here, fresh fruit, pretty juicy and aromatic. Clean flavours. 50% new oak. 13.8% alcohol. 91/100. Drink 2021-2035.
Les Tourelles de Longueville, Pauillac 2010
60/40 merlot/cab sauvignon, 50% new barrels. 45% of 2nd wine, same again for Pichon, then 10% declassified (w all the cab franc and petit verdot, because not planted on the best place, too much water stress this year). Rich, strong tannins, good acidity, 14,000 cases of both wines. 92/100. Drink 2019-2030.
Chateau Pichon de Longueville (Baron), Pauillac 2010
79% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot (last year 67/33). This has a gorgeous, strong nose, real whooshing acidity pouring in to the sides of your mouth. Picked around one week later than last year, but were able to wait. 3.7ph, again usually 3.85 or 3.9. The theory here is that the low pH came because with no rain the roots went deeper, where there is less potassium and magnesium (high potassium usually equals high ph and low acidity). Fantastic length, again this purity of fruit on the finish. Highly successful. 94-95/100. Drink 2021-2045.
Chateau Cos Labory, Saint Estèphe 2010
Appealing, big but charming nose, some fresh fruit, a little more fun than the Pauillacs. This is a touch green on the finish, but definite potential and charm – and should offer great value. 90/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau de Pez, Saint Estèphe 2010
Sweet new oak, unmistakeable! Again, the alcohol whacks things out of play, and it doesn’t get back on track. Not as successful as their 2009. 86-87/100.
Chateau Lafon Rochet, Saint Estèphe 2010
Beautiful ripe purple, fresh fruit, juice and pleasurable, with the tunnel whoosh. Like this, frank and upfront and enjoyable. Chocolate and mocha on the finish, modern but pleasing. 93/100. Drink 2019-2029.
Chateau Ormes de Pez, Saint Estèphe 2010
Darker plummy nose, a little too sweet on the attack, but the acidity in mid palate and lovely juiciness on the finish gives it the pleasurable overall impact that I so often find in this wine. Needs time to integrate, perhaps, but definitely one to watch. 91-92/100. Drink 2018-2030
Chateau Phelan Segur, Saint Estephe 2010
Big, good powerful attack but too much heat on the mid palate. All about the tannic power. Good acidity though, and things right themselves on the last furlong. Tasted this at the chateau also a few weeks before en primeur, where the power was also in evidence – but the finish is more knitted together now, and this will continue to improve. 91-92/100. Drink 2018-2028.