Gerard Perse Wines, tasted in Paris on 18/3/2009

Chateau Pavie 2008, Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe B – Of all the Perse 2008s, I found the Pavie by far the most enjoyable, which is not necessarily what I would have expected. Beautifully aromatic nose, and can clearly pick out the cabernet franc (this vintage has 70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon). The tannins are still in hobnailed boots, but it has a real elegance to it, and once you’ve recovered from the initial punch, there is a velvety smooth finish. 94-95.

Chateau Bellevue Mondotte, Saint Emilion Grand Cru – You need a hacksaw to get through this, an ice pick to begin to claw your way up its sides. It has been cropped to 18 hl/h and you can tell! Probably a wine that Perse is very proud of, and it certainly packs a punch, but it is fierce and not for me, I’m afraid. 86

Chateau Pavie Decesse, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe – As with all of these, just stunningly deep and rich in colour, full intensity, almost Malbec black. This has a strong menthol palate that gives it almost a menthol edge, and the fruit is slightly dampened by the alcohol. But there is definite appeal, and it has enormous structure and confidence. 90.

Chateau Monbousquet, Saint Emilion Grand Cru (was made classified in the defunct 2006 rankings) – Not a wine that I often enjoy because it can be just too ‘thick’. And this certainly follows type – deep cocoa and bitter dark chocolate, to the point that you start to think ‘how the hell did he get those flavours out of a Saint Emilion?’ It’s a very good wine, but again, not for me. 86-88.

Chateau Les Lunelles, Cotes de Castillon – Chewy, rich and deep, with great lingering flavours. A lovely Cotes de Castillon (incidentally a recent purchase for Perse, on the highest point of the appellation on the Clos les Lunelles plateau). May take a long time to soften up, but feel sure that it will develop into a gorgeous wine. Impressive. 88-90.

Chateau Clos L’Eglise, Cotes de Castillon – Attractive wine, lovely chocolate and mocha aromas. Slightly chewy tannins and has nice firm fruit. Stops a bit short. 84-85.

Chateau Saint Colombe, Cotes de Castillon – Very soft and falls off fairly quickly at the end. There is a promising start, and a seemingly powerful mid-palate, but it seems to go nowhere fast. 82.