Pessac Leognan
Another strongly performing appellation for me this year. They were big though - definitely got the feeling that these chateaux are looking to make an impact.
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan
Second wines are seriously worth looking out for this year. They should be well priced, and the overall quality of the vintage means that many have wonderful fruit flavours and will be ready to drink sooner than their big (more expensive) brothers. This second wine of La Mission Haut Brion is a great example, with 44% merlot, 46% cabernet sauvignon and 10% cabernet franc, all aged in 24% new oak. Delicate ruby red fruits, very charming, deceptively frank, but plenty of complexity under the surface. 92
La Mission Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan
50% Grand Vin, La Chapelle 48%. 9,000 cases of La Mission, against 5,000 last year. Beautifully structured. A real mouth-tingler, with very careful tannic structure. A precise, tip-toeing wine. 44% merlot, 46% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc. Such lovely length, and the finish is all about delicate red fruits. Raspberry coulis, redcurrants. 77% new oak. Used a new Vistalis machine for sorting in the fields, but didn’t make an enormous difference as this year the sorting needed was minimal. Alcohol is at 14.7%, but well balanced with the tannins and acidity. Tannins levels were 84.5 – last year 74 (and 76 in 2005). But again, ripe, rich tannins. Wonderful wine, reaching the highest quality. 96-97.
Le Clarence de Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan
39% of production went into the second wine this year, now known as Le Clarence de Haut Brion. The blend is 46% Merlot, 39% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot. A lot more structured and masculine than La Chapelle. The petit verdot gives a deeper colour also. The tannins are more structured and more present, and will take longer to open up. All together, for a second wine choice, I would go with La Chapelle – but this is very good quality. 91.
Chateau Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan
10,500 cases of Haut Brion made this year, against 7,000 last year, with 57% of the overall production. The deep, stately nose and colour are immediately seductive. 14.3% alcohol (slightly more evident than la Mission on first attack, although quickly smoothed in and balanced out). Lovely coffee, mocha, not so much grilled as toasted almonds. 78% new oak. Blend is 46% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon, 14% cabernet franc. The tannins are very present, has a wonderful structure. Incredible depth of flavour. For me the 08 stood out because it was just in such contrast to many others -it was head and shoulders above many for me last year. This year it is wonderful, but less stand out. It’s a wine that you really have to sit with for a while, it steals up on you, and power builds in your mouth. Lost around 10-30% of production through hail, depending on plot, but recompensed by doing less crop thinning in summer – the hail did it naturally. 97-98.
La Clarete de Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
The second white wine, across both Haut Brion Blanc and La Mission Haut Brion Blanc. The blend is 84% semillon, 16% sauvignon. Very lemony, good mouthfeel, full, fat and expressive. 50% new oak. 89.
La Mission Haut Brion Blanc, Pessac Leognan
84% Semillon, 16% Sauvignon, 50% new oak. Picked August 31 to September 10, at 13.9% alcohol. Very clean berries, went twice through each plot. Juicy, full fruit, good acidity, crisp fruit, this has mango and papaya seeds, slightly more delicate than the Haut Brion blanc this year. 94.
Haut Brion Blanc, Pessac Leognan
14.2% alcohol, lovely balance of exotic fruit, grilled apricots and a good bracing acidity. Less acidity than 2008. Vinified at around 22 degrees. These are rich and round and full of personality. For me, I prefer crisper more defined years, I’m an 07 white kind of a girl! 92.
BLIND TASTING AT HAUT BAILLY
REDS
Chateau Chantegrive, Graves
Lovely stately red colour, less vibrant than many from the northern Medoc, this is more of a ‘red’ than a purple. Good fruit on the nose that comes through on the palate, but there is a distinctly medicinal, slightly minty whiff that goes alongside the fruit. Not unappealing, and gives it a real sense of lift and freshness, but doesn’t quite reach the fruit I would like. 87-88.
Chateau Ferrande, Graves
This has a softer, rounder fruit nose, and the fruit goes deeper on the palate. But falls a little short on the finish – again, the competition is so high this year that the faults really stand out. 88+.
Chateau Rahoul, Graves
This is the most successful of the first three for me. Here there is a real sense of elegance and restraint to the fruit, and those soft silky tannins that have been present in a number of the successful wines this year. Good length, gentle blackcurrant fruits, really attractive wine. 91+.
Chateau Bouscaut, Pessac Leognan
The colour takes a step up in vibrancy, and some purple hints come rushing in. On the palate, again there is this lovely fruit, mixed with the sense of restraint and carefully placed tannins. The tannins build up to quite a crescendo on the end, and this has the staying power and grip of a highly successful wine, balanced with lovely fruit and great acidity. 93+
Chateau Carbonnieux, Pessac Leognan
Some slightly fuller extraction here, but it manages to keep things within balance, and there are quite beautiful notes of crushed violets on the palate. Subtle complexity, with slightly chalky tannins on the finish. It is heavier than some, but very good. 92
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac Leognan
Again a rich velvet red rather than brilliant purple. Smoky nose, charred cedarwood and hints of tobacco. Modern and seductive. A high level of extraction, but these feel like fruit tannins, and I really like the sweetness on the finish, that has a good twist of acidity. An enjoyable wine from Olivier Bernard that should age very well. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot. 95.
Chateau de Fieuzal, Pessac Leognan
Again that smoky nose, evident new oak but appealingly so, not overdone. Slightly ups intensity on the palate, and does need some time to integrate better, but the elements are all seriously impressive and ready to go – powerful fruits, rich structure, a good backbone. But does need to integrate – wonder how long ago the blend was done on this sample? 92+
Chateau de France, Pessac Leognan
Almost inky black, everything pumped up. Some subtle vanilla on the nose, this feels like more new oak, but less toasted. Plenty of well-placed fruits, there is good acidity here but it is slightly overpowered by the alcohol, which must be very high. Good length, clearly well made, needs time. 89-90.
Chateau Haut Bailly, Pessac Leognan
Plumper, richer and sweeter fruit than the 2008, which was the epitome of restraint - you can clearly tell the sunshine was more generous in 2009. This still has the precision of a classic Haut Bailly, but with a richness to the fruit that is gorgeous. Blend is 60 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 37 per cent merlot and 3 per cent cabernet franc, using 50 per cent new oak. Very classy and understated, especially when retasted against some more exuberant 2009s. Excellent. 95-96.
Chateau Haut Bergey, Pessac Leognan
Full, deep and rich in colour. Rich cherry and chocolate on the nose. An increasingly dynamic estate, owned by Sylviane Garcin-Cathiard (also of Clos l’Eglise in Pomerol) with Alain Reynaud as consultant. Get the ice pick out to scale the walls of this wine – this will have definite fans, and it is not completely overblown, but it has a very definite point to make, and doesn’t want to be forgotten. However, for me it loses some personality through its swagger. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. 91-92.
Chateau La Louviere, Pessac Leognan
Ok, after recovering from Haut Bergey (water, tooth rub down), moving on to another stately purple. Far more subtle. You need to sit with this one and let it reveal itself to you. Subtle soft coffee and mocha, and some good floral touches, with violet making an appearance again. Steals up on you, charming. 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. 93.
Chateau Larrivet Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan
A nose so tight that it is giving little away, and the colour also is terribly deep, in a Gruffalo-style manner (it has terrible teeth in its terrible jaws). Layers and layers of tannins, again you have to reach right in there with a tooth-pick to remove them from your enamel before it peels off. There is plenty of acidity too, all saved by a good whack of black cherry fruit. Plenty to admire in this wine, less to curl up with. 91.
Chateau Latour Martillac, Pessac Leognan
Another water moment needed; Pessac is really going for it this year. However, I feel the balance on this is good – there is plenty of turbo charge, and my palate is really feeling it. But this has softly-worked tannins, very good freshness and is a cohesive (if faint-inducing) experience. 93.
Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan
Dark in colour, rich in nose, this shows again that Pessac Leognan is 19 with a bullet in 2009. This one has elegance aswell, where the fruit and freshness do override the power and bulishness. Great length, a truly lovely wine. Love the gentle dark chocolate on the finish, dusted almonds. 55% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. 94+
Chateau Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac Leognan
This property, owned by the Belgian Bonnie family, delivers increasingly exciting and successful wines. There's nothing retiring about this - plenty of oak and tannins, enough to require a porter, but with exotic red fruits that make it supremely appealing. A long life ahead. Michel Rolland is consultant here. 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. 93-94.
Chateau Olivier, Pessac Leognan
A gourmet nose, but here is some freshness apparent. A fabulously direct wine, goes straight to your head, high alcohol but well balanced by very rich black fruits, a good shot of acidity, and a full backbone, but finishes very soft. Highly successful – if a little hot. 93+
Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac Leognan
The nose doesn’t want to give too much away. In colour, you can gather that it is no stranger to anthocyanins and polyphenols. You have to sit with this wine and let it start the conversation – there’s no butting in first here. Quite a brooder, a touch sulky at first and alcohol is definitely high. But there is charm, and the fruit builds up to a crescendo. I like it, but a touch out of balance on the finish – the alcohol has a hard time letting you go. 92-93.
Chateau Pique Caillou, Pessac Leognan
The nose is subdued because it’s too much of a fight to make it through. This has all of the extraction with none of the charm. No question that the IPT levels etc will be through the roof. But I really feel a lack of freshness in this wine, and it whacks you round the head rather than kisses you good morning. Great length, I will give it that! 87-88.
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac Leognan
This has an impactful nose, but with enough restraint to let through hints of wild herbs and blackberry leaf. Chewy tannins, but bright fruit flavours, and I like the weight of the whole thing. It’s gourmet, with lovely length, and an accomplished lift on the finish that brings things well into balance. 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 94+.
WHITES
Am I (and my teeth) ready for these!! I'm not sure that I agree with the general feeling that 2009 was as good for whites as for reds – although there were some brilliant examples.
Chateau Chantegrive, Graves
Love the soaring nose on this, a very pleasant spring flower, floral white blossom experience. Juicy fruits, good acidity, and really a very charming wine. Less floral on the palate, more lemony, but I like the balance. Good. 91+.
Chateau Ferrande, Graves
Rich yellow in colour. More straw and hay on this palate than lemon, I like that is has a slightly savoury edge. Good length and acidity. But I imagine also higher in alcohol, as that overrides the final impression on the palate; a shame as it brings everything down a little. 89.
Chateau Rahoul, Graves
Nice honeysuckle and apple blossom on the nose, this has a delicate feel to it. It is 100% new oak, but not too overpowering, and has a frankness and a directness that is appealing. 80% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc. 90-91.
Chateau Bouscaut, Pessac Leognan
Pale yellowy gold, a nice delicate colour. Very powerful nose, plenty of fresh lemons and lovely pure fruit. On the palate this has fabulous minerality, really stands out for me. A deftness of touch, but plenty of flavour and a strong finish. 45% Sémillon, 55% Sauvignon, 45% new oak. 94+
Chateau Carbonnieux, Pessac Leognan
This is so pale as to be almost watery. Nose is quite subdued, but not unpleasant at all. On the palate, it just misses on pretty much every level though. There is alcohol, but the fruit is barely clinging on for dear life, what on earth has happened here??? 65% Savignon blanc, 35% Semillon, 30% new oak. This must be the bottle - need to retaste.
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac Leognan
Again very pale in colour, an almost watery gold. Some richer fruit on the nose though, and I like the honeysuckle flavours that come through on the palate. A zippy white wine, although I felt the red was more successful this year from here. 90.
Chateau de Fieuzal, Pessac Leognan
A richer golden colour. This has plenty of straw, and you can certainly feel the alcohol, but there is some nice freshness to balance, and this seems to have good structure and a gentle spice. A better one for ageing than I have seen so far. Good. 93.
Chatau de France, Pessac Leognan
Golden colour a sweeter, more honeyed nose – 80% Sauvignon, 20% Semillon, 30% new oak. On the palate it dips down slightly for me, because the alcohol starts reaching its fingers around the glass, and doesn’t really let go. 87-88.
Chateau Haut Bergey, Pessac Leognan
Slightly subdued nose, but I like what it there – slightly savoury - and this has an attractive golden colour without being overdone. 80% Sauvignon blanc, 20% Semillon, 40% new oak. Again on the palate this is savoury rather than sweet, and is very restrained compared to many. Definitely apparent alcohol, but not too overpowering – although the hot finish brings things down for me. 91+
Chateau La Louviere, Pessac Leognan
Again, on the pale side of yellow, perhaps because this is 100% sauvignon blanc, with 30% new oak. This has very clear acidity, and some attractively gooseberry flavours, but surprisingly it’s all a bit tart rather than fresh. Again, I felt the red was more successful from this estate. 89-90.
Chateau Larrivet Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan
Subtle pale gold, attractive colour. I like this, it has plenty of juicy flavours, with depth and intensity, without straying into over alcohol. There is good balance, nice apricot and exotic fruit flavours. 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon. 93+
Chateau Latour Martillac, Pessac Leognan
Pale gold again, but richer on the nose than many here. Like the fruit, and the batonnage indications of baker’s flavours, but alcohol creeps up. 65% Sauvignon, 35% Semillon 33% new oak. 91.
Chateau Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac Leognan
Delicate gold, very pretty colour. This has a very refreshingly sharp edge, but good weight of fruit underneath, and I like the length. Successful. 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon, a high 60% new oak, but it works very well. 92.
Chateau Olivier, Pessac Leognan
Quite a different nose, more candy. There is a nice weight of fruit here, good strong lemon flavours. Keep waiting for the alcohol to tip over into too much, but it is held in check by acidity and a fairly impressive structure. 78% Sauvignon blanc, 20% Semillon, 2% Muscadelle. 93.
Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac Leognan
More yellowy gold here, and a far more clearly structured nose. This has actually visible fruit, again it’s the apricots and exotic kind and no denying that the alcohol is high. 48% Sauvignon blanc , 40% Semillon, 6% Sauvignon gris, 6% Muscadelle. 92.
Chateau Pique Caillou, Pessac Leognan
Again, I am enjoying the flavours that are coming through here. This is an attractive wine, some good rich flavours but some very nice acidity also. One of my favourites, right at the end. 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon. 93.
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac Leognan
My last wine of the last tasting of the primeurs week, incidentally! Happy that this is an enjoyable finish. Good juicy fruits, nice structure and although alcohol present, not overpowering, good exotic fruits that suck you in without spitting you out. 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris, 5% Semillon. 50% new oak. 94+.