Pessal Leognans
A very strong showing from this appellation in 2010, easily one of the best across the board that I have tasted since moving here in 2003. The reds were by and large big, structured and confident, and the style of Pessac Leognan seems really to have moved on a level, and separate quite distinctly from the softer and subtler Graves. The white wines, very different in style from 2009, had some lovely lilting acidity, and plenty of promise. They lack the fruit concentration of the best 2007s for me, but this is one of the most impressive showings from Bordeaux whites for a few years.
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac Léognan 2010
Stunning density of fruit on the nose, rich, deep damson with gentle spices. Incredibly elegant, yet with real depth to the spice. 27% merlot, 47% cab sauv, 26% cab franc. Tapers off at the end of the palate, lifts you upwards. 42% of their production this year went into La Chapelle. 93++/100. Drink 2018-2035.
La Clarence de Haut-Brion, Pessac Léognan 2010
Under-valued compared to the other second wines of the First Growths, this is really worth seeking out. The wine offers an instant hit of finely-textured autumnal fruits, so clean and precise that it closes with a whisper on the finish – highly accomplished, with a rich vibrant core. They declassified all the young merlot vines (that suffered with the drought) that would normally be used in this wine. 52% merlot, 36% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot. 39% of the overall production went into the second wine this year. 94/100. Drink 2018-2035.
Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac Léognan 2010
47% of the production made up the first wine in 2010. At a hefty 15% abv, I was a touch apprehensive (the power of Twitter, where the alcohol levels were widely commented on), and although the fruit power of the first attack hides the alcohol, here is no denying that the mid palate contains some heat. But the finish has such acidity, such freshness, that you are whisked upwards. Apparently this year the tri optique really came into its own, as the stalks were very dry and broken, and it was very useful to have everything sorted to a microscopic degree. The nose is rich, layered, scented, and the palate has stunning, richly intense and well layered fruits. It doesn’t beat the 2009 for me, but it is still pretty great. 37% merlot, 62% cabernet sauvignon, 1% cabernet franc. 96+/100. Drink 2021-2045.
Chateau Haut Brion, Pessac Léognan 2010
Production was down 30% on last year, with an expected 7300 cases, because of smaller berry size, some coulure on the merlot and more declassified wine. The reds were picked from 9 September to 9th October, one day later than last year They selected 42% of the overall production into the grand vin this year, with alcohol slightly lower than La Mission at 14.6% abv. This is a stunning, gorgeous, richly layered and textured wine. It manages to be generous and insistent, but very elegant. Long lasting, so light on the palate yet rich and full. Blend is 27% merlot, 57% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc. The tunnel of acidity comes in to play here, but it is of a less fair-ride experience, it is effortless. Gorgeous, just so generous. 98-99/100. Drink 2018-2045.
La Clarté de Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac Léognan 2010
For the whites, the harvesters started very early, 6am to 14h with a miners light strapped to their heads, to ensure picking in freshness. From 1 sept, to 10 sept. No rot, transported in refrigerated trucks from the vines to the cellars. The blend is 83% semillon, 17% sauvignon blanc. Rich, honeyed nose, this is rich, and pure, utterly dry but with a real roundness of fruit and a full, frank mid palate. I love the minerality on this, and the delicate finish. 13.8% abv. 92/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau la Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac Léognan 2010
81% semillon, 19% sauvignon blanc. Oh. Thrilling is the word for this wine. Vinification-wise, the grapes have a cold settling, then they start fermentation in vat and finish in barrels. To aerate and add complexity to the wine the team ensures a wide variety of yeasts. Such density of citrus fruit, incredible richness but mouth tingling acidity, this moves in distinct stages through your palate, which ensures that you engage with it physically from start to finish. 47% new barrels ,14.3% abv. 97-98/100. Drink 2015-2030.
Chateau Haut-Brion blanc, Pessac Léognan 2010
46% new barrels, 14.4% abv, blend of 46% semillon, 54% sauvignon. Feel the alcohol just a touch more here, but it has melted, dissipated by the finish. Yet again, it is this incredibly deft, well textured fruit, carefully delineated, with passion fruit, stone fruits, plenty of citrus and rich, juicy elderflowers. I prefer the Mission Blanc by a nose, and the Haut-Brion red by a nose. 95/100. Drink 2015-2030.
Graves
Ch Rahoul, Graves 2010
Bright ruby colour, and a rich damson nose. This is fairly restrained on the attack, although heat seeps into the finish. Good brambly fruit, some lift, but not especially complex. Second tasting after the rest of the flight, does have more depth now it has opened up, and some attractive chocolate, but still not striking. 88/100. Drink 2016-2025.
Ch Ferrande, Graves 2010
Far more complexity on the nose, this has depth of fruit, and gentle spice. Excellent depth of fruit on the palate also, damson, black cherry, slight toasting, roasted almonds but not too obvious. 91/100. Drink 2017-2028.
Ch de Chantegrive, Graves 2010
Rich damson in colour. Some well textured fruit, but extraction is high on this one, as is the alcohol, giving a slightly drying finish. There is clear matiere here, and this estate has a good track record (with Hubert de Bouard as consultant), but the dry finish means the vibrancy of the primary fruit is lost. Still, there is promise. 89/100. Drink 2017-2025.
Ch Haut Bergey, Pessac Léognan 2010
Rich, well textured, some liquorice notes. Alcohol is high, but the tannins are well knitted, and the acidity high enough to deftly catch the alcohol, like a pitchers glove. Would prefer a lighter finish, but it's good. 93/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac Léognan 2010
Continuing a run of good vintages for this estate, this has a rich plum nose, and a fresh attack. There are evident chalky tannins, and clear fruit extraction (again, an organic programme that is paying off), but not integrated yet, and the heat is upsetting the balance in mid-palate. Still, it rights itself by the end, and I imagine this is just a little early to be tasting the wine. 92++/100. Drink 2018-2035.
Ch de Fieuzal, Pessac Léognan 2010
More of the violet en primeur purple here, lovely pure fruit with some traces of minerality. I like this very much, juicy redcurrant, touches of gooseberry, excellent lift on the finish and very elegant. Lovely, lip-smacking wine. 94++/100. Drink 2018-2035.
Ch Latour Martillac, Pessac Léognan 2010
Deep velvet red in colour with just an outer rim of violet. Touch of unbalanced heat, and drying tannins, but clearly a lot going on, and clearly a wine with ambition, built for the long haul. Thev manage almost entirely to pull themselves back from the brink of over extraction due to the acidity, but still this is a buckle-up wine. 91+/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch les Carmes Haut Brion, Pessac Léognan 2010
Again, rich and red not bright violet. More mocha and coffee here, but quite pinched tannins and a slightly burnt flavour. Pulls it around, again because acidity lifts the palate on the finish, but not one of the best efforts. 87/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac Léognan 2010
Rich purple colour, with a sliver of vibrancy at the rim. Wonderful texture visually and a highly promising nose. Charcoal flavours, some smoky plum, touch of cassis, heavy tannic structure and a full mid-palate, but all very quiet, breathing slowly, clearly built for a long life. One of the best ever from this estate. 94+/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Bouscaut, Pessac Léognan 2010
A touch obviously sweet on the nose, and a sweet, new oak punch on the palate (was the wine put into barrel too recently for this tasting?). Of course that will calm down over the next year. On the palate, there is heat, tannins, vanilla and sweet plum. Some spice, and thank god for the acidity, but not the best hest here for me. 88-89/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch de France, Pessac Léognan 2010
Rich and dark in colour, the anthocyanins clear to see here, must have been small berry size and thick skins! Some obvious vanilla on the nose. Plenty of fruit but you need to breathe in to cool your mouth down from the alcohol here, and one of the very few where it sours the finish. The alcohol has knocked out a promising beginning. 88/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch Pique Caillou, Pessac Léognan 2010
Again, incredibly deep, velvety red, with some glass staining ruby at the rim. Full, spicy and focused on the nose, I am girding my loins for the big ride experience. Actually, although this is huge, they have the seatbelts on. Tons of fruit, tons of tannins, alcohol, acidity, you name it it's here, but overall this pulls it off. Might need to lie down though. 92-93/100. Drink 2018-2028
Chateau Haut Bailly, Pessac Léognan 2010
Warm vanilla pods and cedar on the nose. On the palate, the elegance comes in, with freshness that matches pace for pace the tannins and deep black fruits. Every element is in check, and unveils itself at a slow pace, like a wartime bride. This continues a run of increasingly successful vintages for this chateau, and even with the price rise introduced in 2009 (where it doubled from 2008), this is just effortlessly impressive. 95+/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Olivier, Pessac Léognan 2010
Another estate that has produced high quality this year, better than their 2009. A vibrant, reflective purple, with big but well-controlled fruit extraction. Confident wine-making, big gooseberry redcurrant fruits and a tunnel of freshness in the mid-palate that pulls you through to the finish. Excellent. 93/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Chateau La Louviere, Pessac Léognan 2010
Deep colour, and a smoky oak nose. Interesting soft red fruits on the palate, but a touch disjointed on the attack – not green exactly, but not generous, and it needs time to work itself out. 88/100. Drink 2019-2028.
Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion, Pessac Léognan 2010
This is a rich wines; here we have black cherry and crème anglaise. Good acidity, a touch sour in the mid palate, and the fruit is a little unbalanced by the alcohol, but its potential shows with the long fresh finish. 89/100. Drink 2019-2028.
Chateau Carbonnieux, Pessac Léognan 2010
Again, vibrant purple and a sweet, frank nose. Touch too vanilla, but attractive still, and as with so many wines this year the demanding levels of acidity in the mid-palate bring in the elegance. Good layers of fruit, but they have not controlled the alcohol as well as others here. The sweet cherry flesh nearly saves it, but needs more balance. 89/100. Drink 2018-2028,
Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac Léognan 2010
Rich, deep in colour, enjoyable raspberry coulis on the nose. Powerful, burrowing fruits, with clear acidity but it needs it because this is a big wine, with high fruit extraction. Well controlled, precision winemaking, but not especially generous. Clearly potential though, and this is easily one of the best en primeur experiences that I have had with this wine, which for me can err on the side of too much. 2010 has proved a wonderful vintage for this style of wine because of the acidity. 93/100. Drink 2020-2040.
Chateau Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac Léognan 2010
Glass staining, but still velvet not violet. Again, plenty of promise on the attack, a wine with ambition, and there is an excellent mouth-watering acidity on the finish. You have to engage physically with this wine, as the heat in the mid-palate takes time to dissipate, but it does so neatly, and brings you to a rich but fresh close of play. This is really a name to watch in Pessac-Leognan. 92-93+/100. Drink 2018-2035.
Whites
Ch de Chantegrive, Graves 2010
As with many of the PL whites this year, this is very pale in colour, light gold, barely even yellow. Lovely delicate, elderflower nose, and this has good, non-agressive length. It's delicate, might not be to everyone's taste, have to look for it, soft hay and grassy aromas and on the palate, but I like it a lot. 90/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Ch Carbonnieux, Pessac Léognan 2010
Pretty closed on the nose, this sample is probably are a little too cold for fully accurate tasting, too much can be masked (someone cynically suggested the temperature was kept low to hide alcohol levels). Sweeter fruit, I imagine from batonnage and oak, but it has lovely, juicy mouthwatering freshness, and a good strong finish. Far more successful than the red wine at this estate in 2010, and showing again just why it is regarded as one of the best whites in Bordeaux. Needs time. 94/100. Drink 2017-2030.
Ch Bouscaut, Pessac Léognan 2010
Slightly more weight to the colour here, and the nose reflects that with a touch of heavy wet grass. Touch of reduction at first, and alcohol creeps over the perception threshold. There is more to hold on to here, more of a gourmet style, but less elegance. Good if you are looking for a bigger style. 89-90/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Ch La Louviere, Pessac Léognan 2010
Still cloudy, as a number of these are. Juiciness is evident, so good acidity, and again these slightly elderflower, elderberry notes that give a slightly sour edge that will not be to everyone’s taste. I like this, but mid palate a little thin. Good length though, and again it is on the finish where these wines are coming into their own, with an uplift that is very attractive. 88/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau Pique Caillou, Pessac Léognan 2010
Again cloudy, lots of lees in suspension today. Sweet almost candyfloss on the palate here, and a touch unbalanced. Lovely juiciness, good fruit flavours, citrus and lime, but sour finish. 88-89/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau de Fieuzal, Pessac Léognan 2010
Bright and clear, strong elderflower and gooseberry, mouthwatering citrus. Very well defined fryit, good depth of flavour, and this manages complexity, depth and frshness, with that gorgeous pesac leognan savoury edge. Very enjoyable in both colours this year. 93++/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau Olivier, Pessac Léognan 2010
Good round mouthfeel, and mouthwatering citrus, good bright, clean fruit. Alcohol high, but acidity to give balance, almost. 91-92/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac Léognan 2010
More subdued on the nose, but big on the palate, with high alcohol that strips some flavour. Have to be so so careful with white wines, they are merciless at showing up alcohol, and this is not as successful for me as the rather fabulous red this year. Still, I can never drink this chateau without remembering how much I enjoy their white wines as they get older, and I would be more than happy to take a punt that this may develop brilliantly as well. 89+/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Chateau Rahoul, Pessac Léognan 2010
Sauvignon cat’s pee smells, first one today. Pretty pleasant wine, damp grass, English picnics, delicate elderflower. Not huge, but pretty. 90/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau de France, Pessac Léognan 2010
Richer mid-yellow in colour. Quite a peaky acidty, not much of a mid palate. Think this misses a little, feels like it runs a knife through itself, commits hari kari before allowing the fruit to escape. Proof that you can be too thin. 86/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau Haut Bergey, Pessac Léognan 2010
Lovely citrus on the nose, this has a fresh and full attack, good summery aromas, a little too sherbety perhaps, and hot on finish, but okay. 89/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Ch Ferrande, Pessac Léognan 2010
Correct but unexciting. Good acidity, just a little thin on the finish. Still, there is grapefruit and gooseberry fruit in here, and they are clearly attempting to coax flavour forward. 88/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Ch Larrivet Haut Brion, Pessac Léognan 2010
Here there is heat that comes in from the start, knocks the opening gambit off course. Good acidty manages to ready the tiller, and there is very promising persistance to the overall experience. Interesting, but not cohesive. 88-89/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Ch Latour Martillac, Pessac Léognan 2010
Green yellow tints, some pleasant, fresh fruits, gooseberries again, and the whole thing again reminds me of a rather English damp summery afternoon, quite romantic from my point of view! 92/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac Léognan 2010
Slightly sweet sour, a good dim sum wine. But too hot in the mid-palate, and that dries things out on the finish. What a shame, was enjoying the nose and the first attack enormously. 88/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac Léognan 2010
Some reduction on the nose, but it clears rapidly. On the palate, some zingy lime citrus and mouth-whoosing freshness. Quite subtle on the finish. 90-92/100. Drink 2015-2025.
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac Léognan 2010
Pale, classic cut-grass and hay aromas. Alcohol quite high, but good structure, excellent acidity that really grips, and there is excellent flinty complexity. Interesting, with a real extended finish, and great precision. 93+/100. Drink 2015-2025.