Pomerol

Petrus 

Now vinified by Olivier Berrouet, who has taken over from his father Jean-Claude, this 100% merlot wine has amazing exuberance in 2009, but it’s all very tightly controlled, with pure fruit and softly worked tannins. Incredibly deep, rich nose, and a power that revs up slowly in the mouth. There is an amazing freshness to this, similar to the 1990 with its exuberant finish. Powerful, persistent and truly seductive, with cassis, a sprinkling of vanilla and subtle liquorice flavours. The grapes were picked fairly early to preserve freshness – September 17-18 for the young plants, then October 1 for the heart of Petrus. IPT at around 80 (but as ever, Olivier and Jean-Claude are so sensible, they say the level doesn’t matter, it is the type of tannins and polyphenols that count, and how they are expressed). Malolactic fermentation starts naturally after the vinification, no idea of co-innoculation here, and it was finished by the end of November.  98-100.

Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol

The 2009 vintage at this well-loved Pomerol estate saw the highest level of merlot since the late 1940s (84 per cent, with the remainder divided equally between cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc; last year, 25 per cent of the grapes were cabernet franc), so it is difficult to call this wine a classic Vieux Chateau Certan. But it has wonderful intensity and mid-palate weight, while maintaining freshness and elegance that owner Alexandre Thienpont seems incapable of not producing. 97-98.

Duo de Conseillante

The second wine of La Conseillante, and a clear link to the first wine (it is taken from the same plots, rather vinified for an earlier-drinking style). Picking was 17-23 Sept for the merlot and 23-28 for the cabernet franc. Final blend is 90% merlot, 10% cabernet franc. First vintage of this second wine was 2007 and it accounts for just 6% of the entire production (up to 15% in 2007 because clearly there were less impressive grapes overall). This is lovely – plenty of fresh, croquant fruit. Gilles Paquet is the consultant, and uses 50% new oak. 92.

Chateau La Conseillante

La Conseillante 2009 is 81% merlot, 19% cabernet franc. The alcohol is a little higher than in 2005 (14.2 compared to 13.8 in 2005). 100% new oak, and you can definitely feel the sweet edge that it gives. Nose is closed tight, but not only is this very young, but also just opened for the day’s tasting. This has a lovely power and just beautiful juicy acidity, incredibly mouth-filling, fleshy, well integrated tannins, the thing floats above a bed of tannins. This might be my favourite La Conseillante ever. The black fruits are intense, the structure is perfect, and the length quite amazing. 4,000 cases probably produced this year, about normal (3,500 in 2008). One of my favourite wines tasted. 98.

Fugue de Nenin

The second wine of Chateau Nenin, owned by (at tasted at) the Borie family at Leoville Las Cases. This is very juicy, with gooseberry fruit, very 'croquant' (crunchy), as the French like to say. Maybe a touch too sweet, but pleasurable. 81% merlot, 19% cabernet franc. 88+.

Chateau Nenin

Very obviously from the same family, same gooseberry and redcurrant flavour profile. A classic lesson in moving from second to first wine, with immediate upwards trajectory of depth and structure. The blend this year is 80% merlot, 20% cabernet franc.  Very good. 92+.

Moueix tasting (Alcohol levels throughout between 13.8 and 14 throughout the Moueix range).

Chateau Plince

This is big, lots of coffee, lots of extraction, the tannins are fairly chalky at first, then meat up, this is bristling, and very ‘Pomerol’. Impressive. 72% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. 92-93.

Chateau Lafleur-Gazin

More of a fresh structure to this, prefer it to Plince in fact. Still high alcohol, lots of tannic backbone, lovely black cherry and vanilla, but rises up in the last quarter. Good. 93.

Chateau Lagrave

Silky, fresh, highly tannic and alcoholic but the more raucous elements steal up on you so you barely notice. The tannins do a great job of bringing the fruit into a long well-ordered line, like children on a school trip, for a couple of minutes. Seriously classy wine. 94-95

Chateau Bourgneuf

Burly, big, slightly less fresh than some of the others. Plenty of sexy smoke going on though. 91

Chateau Latour a Pomerol

A much more masculine counterpoint to Lafleur-Petrus, as is classic with this wine. This is a big, meaty wine, very good quality, long life ahead of it, excellent. 93-94

Ch Lafleur Petrus

Vineyard located right next to Petrus, but this one has stayed under the control of the Christian/Eduard Moueix side of the family. Very feminine, lovely soft fruits, very charming (the 20% of cabernet franc brings a lovely delicacy to the nose), but with real power underneath as well, the perfect politician’s wife. Gorgeous. 94.

Hosanna

Big, flashy and exuberant fruit, very good structure, really makes an impression. For me there is the slightest touch of bitterness on the finish – perhaps just need the next year to smooth.  But overall, this has a sense of drama, and is well controlled. 92+.

Providence

This is another step up on the modern and opulent staircase, the sense of drama is really very evident. Lots of layers of coffee here, some truly flashy fruits but it is held back from overkill by firm tannins and good elegance. I like this, but it’s a definite style. 94-95

Chateau Certan de May

Five hectares right opposite Le Pin. Owned by Odette Barreau but distributed (and vinified) by Moueix. Deep, structured, very rich. Delicious. Very cohesive, all elements well in balance, but big, powerful and high in alcohol, up to 14%. 95.

Chateau Trotanoy

What a finish, even if Petrus isn’t here!! That is the best here by a long way. Pure fruit, immense structure, wonderfully carried by the tannins and the acidity. Absolutely wonderful wine. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc with 50% in new oak. 98-99.

JANOEUIX

I stopped by this tasting while passing through Pomerol, and it ended up being one of my favourite of the week. The Bdx Sup of course don't really belong here, forgive me...

Chateau La Croix Mouton, Bordeaux Superieur

Lovely sweet fruit. This is really a great wine, such good value, and you would be happy to own it. I have two cases of the 2008 in my wardrobe (bought and paid for, not freebies!) and it is just such a pleasurable experience. 91+

Chateau le Conseiller, Bordeaux Superieur

This again is very fresh, good quality. Very enjoyable. 90.

20 Mille, Bordeaux Superieur

A highly unusual wine, made from vines that are planted at 20,000 vines per hectare (the absolute maximum usually is 10,000 per hectare, and the majority of Bordeaux Superieurs will come in at well under 5,000). This is very dense, with lovely freshness. But made in such tiny quantities that very few people will ever taste it!! 91.

La Croix St Georges, Pomerol

This is a big wine. Again, these well worked but very present tannins. Lovely weight of fruit, and a great length, absolutely delicious in fact, a really big finish, and plenty of savoury fruits. 93-94.

Chateau La Connivence, Pomerol

Stephane Derenoncourt consultant at this new property, that saw its first vintage in 2008. Cropped at 18 or 19 hl/h. Alcohol about 13.5%, because sandy terroir has managed to keep it delicate. Really a very good wine, lovely freshness, great red fruits, one of those brilliant 2009s that mask their power under this unbelievably silky cover. Could pretty much drink this right now, but feel certain that it will develop into something wonderful. Lovely (but £130 a bottle, so it should be). 95.

UGC Pomerol (tasted blind at Ch Balestard La Tonnelle)

Chateau Gazin

The colour takes a little notch up in intensity, although the Saint Emilions in this tasting were by and large very polyphenol-rich also. This is a little closed, but there is enormous power underneath it. Good freshness on the finish, it’s a big wine, but it needs time, and it needs to be given space to breathe and open up. Subtly enormous, if that is even possible. 93+.

Chateau Petit Village

This has some rich red fruits that are immediately obvious. The tannins go to work right behind though, shovelling the saliva out of the way as they march towards the roof of your mouth. Good weight, and a nice lightness underneath it all. Quality wine – and lovely coffee aromas behind everything. 75% merlot, 17% cabernet sauvignon, 8% cabernet franc. 70% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt has been consultant at Petit Village, since 2006. 3,000 cases. 94.

Chateau La Cabanne

This has a long impact. It’s quite subtle for such a big wine, with such a large amount of fruit, because it steals up on you slowly, but the layers of flavour build up, and I like its slightly earth undertones enormously. Very good, although it just slightly falls off at the end. 93+.

Chateau La Croix de Gay

Owned by Alain Reynaud, this is big alcohol, lots of coffee bean flavours, again this modern Pomerol style that is very flashy and appealing, but lacks a little subtlety. It’s undeniably good though. 93.

Chateau la Pointe

 A good, rich nose. And I like the power on this one enormously. There is nothing wrong with high alcohol when it is so nicely underpinned by freshness and a tannic backbone, and this manages to achieve all of that very well. Very smooth, effortlessly elegant, with great depth of fruit. Like it enormously – and tasted also at Chateau Angelus (as Hubert de Bouard is consultant here) where I was equally impressed. It will be hard for sceptics to discount the changes being made at this Pomerol estate for much longer. 94+

Chateau Beauregard

Deep, deep purple colour, almost opaque. Another good one in the final stretch. Rich, elegant and very well extracted fruit, that manages to have power without slamming home. This is blackberry and rich dark cherry, you know the oak is there but it isn’t overpowering. Good, if a touch dry on the finish, and the alcohol just pops up a little too much on that last stretch. 92.

Chateau Clinet

Very different. God this is extracted. Very big, plenty of freshness, but this whacks you around the side of the mouth. Bedding in for the long term, without a doubt. 92

(and for the sake of completeness, here are the Cercle de Rive Droite Pomerols in their rightful place!)

Chateau Beau Soleil, Pomerol

Owner Thierry Rustman work 3.5 hectares of vines, and makes this 100% Merlot. It’s got very ripe fruit (the sunshine in the name clearly is referring to a microclimate), but in fact is a bit flat overall, needs more of a lift on the finish to avoid the feeling of over-extraction. Shame. 89.

Chateau Bellegrave, Pomerol

This has more body, and more lift on the finish. Incredibly dense fruit, black cherries, damsons, good grip and a lovely minty lift of the finish. Gorgeous effort from owner Jean-Marie Bouldy. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. 93-94.

Chateau Bonalgue, Pomerol

This is good, nice weight of fruit, it builds nicely and is quite understated, unlike some years where this is a very flamboyant wine. But this is very good, with great potential. Owned by Pierre and Jean-Baptiste Bourotte, with 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 92+.

Chateau le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol

So ripe as to be very hot, high in alcohol and lacking balance. This is not a good calling card for Rolland this year, and I preferred to 2008 at this estate. Yes there is fruit there, and there is certainly extraction and power, but where is the elegance? 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. 89.

Chateau Bourgneuf Vayron, Pomerol

Lovely. Lots of layers, plenty of complexity, some gently toasted almonds and coffee beans. Slightly too sweet on the finish for me, I prefer a bit of a minty lift, but this is good stuff. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 91.

Chateau La Clemence, Pomerol

I love the nose, there is a definite tang of juicy fruit and cherry blossom. A touch over-worked on the palate though, with some over-intrusive oak that needs to settle down over the next year. Good, but no cigar. 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. 90-91.

Chateau Clos de Clocher, Pomerol

Another Pomerol estate from Pierre and Jean Baptiste Bourotte. This is fleshy and voluptuous, more of a style that I find in Bonalgue normally. But really very successful. Delicately floral nose from the cabernet franc, no harsh tannins, good length, very seductive. 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. 93.

Chateau La Croix, Pomerol

Redcurrant and gooseberry on the nose, a flavour that I have found on a number of good Pomerols this year. Love that flavour. This is gorgeous. A Janoueix wine – increasingly a name to look out for on the Right Bank, at all price levels. 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon – this gives it more gravitas, but a little less flirtatious fun. Only drawback for me is that this is evidently high in alcohol. 93-94.

Clos de l’Eglise, Pomerol

Chewy, concentrated tannins. This has lovely backbone, very good freshness, and a lot of power. Good coffee beans and dark, bitter chocolate. This is awesomely good, easily one of the best in the tasting. Owned by Sylviane Garcin-Cathiard and Helene Garcin-Leveuque (owners also of Haut Bergey in Pessac Leognan, with Alain Raynaud as consultant here). 80% Melrot, 20% Cabernet Franc. 95+.

Domaine de l’Eglise, Pomerol

Again very good, nice coffee aromas, but not the punch of the Clos L’Eglise. Owned by Philippe Casteja, this has 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. 92.

Chateau Fayat, Pomerol

Clement Fayat, owner of La Dominique in Saint Emilion also. That is extracted to within an inch of its life. It does finally soften out with the fruit, but the extraction is distracting. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. 91.

Chateau Feytit Clinet, Pomerol

Owned by Jeremy Chasseuil. Not a well known Pomerol wine, but charming, and I really like it. Good coffee, nice freshness, interesting complexity. 91.

Chateau La Fleur de Gay, Pomerol

Lovely nose, toasted oak, roasted coffee beans, percolating coffee, yum. Really nice, very exciting wine, plenty of balance, it head towards over alcohol, but pulls itself back. A very big wine, but full of swagger. 100% Merlot from Alain Reynaud and his wife Chantal Lebreton.  94-95.

Chateau Mazeyres, Pomerol

A reliable, unflashy wine from Alain Moueix. It’s not quite as enjoyable as I’d hoped from this estate – there is good weight of fruit, nice freshness, but doesn’t quite deliver the sexiness that the best Pomerols seem to have this year. 91.

Chateau Montviel, Pomerol

Big, concentrated, very good wine from Catherine Pere Verge and consultant Michel Rolland. These are wines that you have to pay attention to. I like this, but don’t love it - all the component parts to be a solid performer is here, but it isn’t yet taking off. However, I just tasted a number of older vintages of Montviel, and it certain seems to reach greatness more often than not, so I am definitely prepared to give it time. 80% Merlot, 20% Cab Franc. 91.

Chateau le Moulin, Pomerol

Good, sweet oak, lots of plump fruits, very modern in style, very crowd pleasing, could have a little more elegance and a little more terroir. But still, this is flashy and exuberant and very good quality. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc from owner Michel Querre. Very nice finish, it sits in the mouth for a while, and builds to a rousing finish. Good. 93.

Chateau Rouget, Pomerol

Owned by Jean Pierre Labrueyere and his son Edouard, a Burgundy family who have vineyards both in Burgundy and Bordeaux (and follow a Burgundian philosophy to a large extent, with everything very small scale, natural and precise – often the malo hasn’t even finished by the primeurs, although this year it seems to have done). The grapes mix is 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. Good crisp fruit, it still needs some time to soften up, but this is really very successful. Bright purple fruits, very tight, very held together, enormously pleasurable, and far from being ready to approach. 94.

Chateau Taillefer, Pomerol

Owned by Catherine Moueix. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. Smoky oak, slightly sweet blackcurrant fruits. This is less cohesive for me than some of the samples of display. It’s good, but there is stiff competition. 75% Melrot, 25% Cabernet Franc. 90.

Chateau Vieux Mallet, Pomerol

90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc from Herve Laviale of Franc Mayne in Saint Emilion, and right now investing seriously in this estate. It’s a bit over-oaked (but no surprise there, this is often a signature of this family of wines), and a touch over-pedalled on the extraction. But there is good stuff underneath, enough plump fruits, to carry it through, and an excellent lift on the finish. 91+.

Chateau Vray Croix de Gay, Pomerol

75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. This is a lovely from the Goldscmidt family (and incidentally one of the wines that will be affected by the Pomerol ruling that says all estates must vinify in the appellation by 2018). There is a l.o.t of alcohol, but good balance, incredibly well toasted coffee beans, and really very charming. Very nice finish, a good lift on the finish. 93.
 

La Croix Taillefer, Pomerol

This is big, and I assume high alcohol. The tannins are like King Kong over Fae-Ray, protecting everything beneath. Huge structure, very good quality in fact and all softens to a lovely finish. Very good. 95% merlot, 5% cab franc. Organic. 92-93.

Bonnes Rives – lalande de pomerol

Certified organic since 2005. Lovely, very fresh fruit. 100% merlot . 89-90.

Romulus – Pomerol

This is rich, full and again very big structure, big tannins. I still like La Croix Taillefer the most of these three (all from the same winemaker). Still, this is a big wine, but in great balance, with very good length and a soft, fruity finsih. Good. 100% merlot. Organic. 91.