Saint Emilion
As a rule, I preferred the Left Bank wines this year, but the great wines on the Right Bank, most particularly from the Pomerol plateau and those with a high proportion of Cabernet Franc, were unbelievable. In a few examples, however, high alcohol seemed so firmly embedded that I couldn’t help wonder exactly where these wines were going to go next. Is there a point at which the winemakers admit that it is too much, or do they honestly want to make wines that can only ever be enjoyed in tiny quantities, and certainly never over lunch when you have to drive or work afterwards? The alcohol was not always obvious, that is certainly true, due to the wonderful levels of acidity, but it was there there none-the-less, and just because it was hidden, doesn’t mean it won’t have an effect on the drinker.
Kees van leeuwan, oenologist at Cheval Blanc and professor at the Institute of Oenology, made an interesting comment on the alcohol, ‘Both 2009 and 2010 are big, powerful years, with the key difference that this year was slightly dryer, but cooler, meaning the acidity is more pronounced. We might have liked 13.5% not 14.5%, alcohol is beginning to preoccupy us. We are having some success with our clonal selection programme, to find clones that are less alcohol friendly. The problem this year, and we are not sure why, is that the cab franc was almost as high in alcohol this year as the merlot, which is unusual.’
Chateau Ausone Tasting
This was one of the most enjoyable across the board of the whole week, and absolutely proves the point that even with exactly the same weather conditions, there was no absolute need to produce super-charged wines.
Chateau de Fonbel, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Deep violet blush. First wine of the day, but held up incredibly well, with soft, well-fruited, damson and plum. Sightly dusty tannins, with alcohol well under control. Nice fresh finish. Slight sourness on the nose, but it dissipates. 66% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 7% petit verdot, 7% carmanere, from 16 hectares of vines on sandy-gravelly soil on the plains of Saint Emilion. Aged in 30% new oak. 90/100. Drink 2016-2030.
Chateau Simard, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Slightly richer plum on the nose. There is a seam of elegance running through these wines, although this has more earthy tannins and for me a slight touch of heat on the attack, that does right itself. 80/20 merlot/cabernet franc. Unoaked. Well-drained sand-gravel soils just below the village of Saint Emilion, bought in the 1950s by the Vauthier family. 89/100. Drink 2016-2030.
Chateau Haut Simard, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Again, these attractively earthy noses, feels grounded in a way that many do not. Again, heat on the attack, that rights itslef, and here in fact a whoosh of freshness comes in, along with some real pure cassis and wild figs. Finish has a touch of heat again, that knocks down what is still a very attractive wine. 60/40 merlot, cab franc 90-91+ /100. Drink 2018-2030.
Chateau Moulin St Georges, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Less violet, more plum on the colour 80/20 merlot, cab franc. Love the gooseberry, redcurrant freshness that you get here, explosive on the first attack, truly juicy acidity, and a lovely fresh finish. This is gorgeous, I would happily buy this. 100% new oak barrels, but you simply can’t tell. They use medium-minus toast for the barrels, and the wine has been in oak since Dec 2010. 20,000 bottles. Only 7 hectares sadly, so not a whole lot of this wine available. 93-94+/100. Drink 2018-2030.
La Chapelle d'Ausone, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Back to the vibrant purple, and this has true intensity and power, that feeling of the fruit and acidty burrowing through your mouth that you get a lot in the good wines this year. Wonderful length, real delicacy on the finish, classy and elegant, with a real control. 65% merlot, 25% cab franc, 10% cabernet sauvignon. It lingers, and is gentle but insisting, one of my Jackie Collins wines... 94+/100. Drink 2020-2035
Chateau Ausone, Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A 2010
Plummy rich red, some violet, cassis and fig hints on the nose. Every year this is a lesson in how to keep things in check, in balance, under control. The blend is the same as last year at 55% cabernet franc, 45% merlot. On paper, this sounds like a big wine: 100% new oak for ageing, low yields (26 hl/h), 14.5% alcohol, Michel Rolland as consultant. And yet they manage to keep things so utterly fresh and restrained. 99/100. Drink 2021-2045.
Clos des Baies, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Tiny vineyard of 60 ares (0.6has), opposite Ch Tetre de Roteboeuf. More of a powerful attack than some of the other Vauthier wines on display here, but again it keeps itself utterly in check, the acidity pulls it back in line and you are delivered the tunnel of fruit that tingles. Philippe Baillarguet's own wine, (winemaker at Ausone). There is no doubt that the signature techniques are at work. Malo in new oak barrels. 70% merlot 30% cab franc. 91/100. Drink 2017-2027.
Chateau St Georges, St Georges St Emilion 2010
This estate, owned by Petrus Dubreil, has been quietly undergoing some serious improvements over the past few years, and on the basis of this sample, offers some real potential for good value enjoyment. Full of ripe red fruits, this said ‘classic Right Bank pleasure’. Toasted oak evident, but not overdone. 90/100. Drink 2028-2028.
Ch la Tour du Pin, Saint Emilion 2010
Done a lot of drainage work since its purchase in 2007, the terroir combines a lovely slope of 4ha with gravel and clay, with 3ha of some sandy soils where they have concentrated the work. Beautiful rich nose, 78% merlot, the rest is cabernet franc. This really has a good tannic structure, quite puckering tannins. Second year of conversion to organic winemaking. Malo in stainless steel vat, to jeep fruit precise, then in barrel end of December. 13.9 % alcohol. 90/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Petit Cheval, Saint Emilion 2010
75% merlot, 25% cab franc. This has real concentration and structure, no dryness on the tannins, but the heat is still apparent. For me, I preferred the joie de vivre of the 2009, to the intellectualism of the 2010 (shouldn’t second wines always have a sense of joy about them, and leave the intellect to the first wine?). Still, there is a real fresh core that keeps it tapping along. And the finish is incredibly impressive – powerful yet subtle, with wonderful uplift of fruit. 50% new oak 93/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Cheval Blanc, Saint Emilion 2010
56% cabernet franc, 44% merlot (last year 60% merlot and 40% cab franc), mainly because coulure affected merlot more than cabernet franc. Maturity arrived very slowly this year, which is why have huge tannins, but so ripe you can’t tell, plus cold nights kept the aromas fresh, and tannins elegant. This year, 60% of production has gone into Cheval Blanc, and then 20% into Petit, and 20% declassified into a generic St Emilion, particularly the young vines that reacted badly to the water stress and shut down, so had high alcohol but green tannins. On the first wine, the length is great, there is real elegance here, and just a wonderful mix of power and supremely self-confident restraint. Around 30 hl/h over 37 hectares for Cheval Blanc. Classic production, approx 70,000-1000,000 bottles. They work still with the place de bdx entirely, no permanent representative in Asia, 14.5%, 97/100. Drink 2022-2042.
Gerard Perse wines, tasted at Chateau Pavie
Chateau Lusseau, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Estate owned by Gerard Perse’s estate manager. I'm not sure that this is working. I am truly getting an alcohol rush on the tongue. A good attack, lovely fruit and freshness, then another big, OTT finish. Not as good as last year for me. 75%/25% merlot cabernet franc. 86/100. Drink 2018-2025.
Clos des Lunelles, Cotes de Bordeaux (Castillon) 2010
There are a lot of interesting slightly earthy tannins here, and unbelievable concentration of spicy dark fruit. 28 hl/h, not at all unpleasant on the finish, the alcohol doesn’t burn, but it’s a hold on tight whoosh as you are tasting, and very little in the way of elegance. 88/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Chateau Monbusquet, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
I always find this wine tough to taste, and no different this year. You need to literally pull in your cheeks and breathe hard. Yield this year was 28 hectolitres per hectare, pretty low but Perse always strives to keep things down to increase concentration. I love the nose, love the potential, but the alcohol takes all the fruit in your mouth and dumps it out. Clearly needs a huge amount of time before approaching. 88-89/100. Drink 2020-2030.
Chateau Pavie Decesse, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
This has a far better chance of taming the vintage, with its location on the limestone plateau, and it does so. Certainly there is silky texture here, and the purity of the fruit comes through, although you can run but you can’t hide from the alcohol. In 2009, this was the star Perse wine for me, but not as successful this year. 90% merlot, 10% cabernet franc. 92/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Bellevue Mondotte, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Just 2.5 hectares, again up on the limestone plateau. There are clear successive waves to this wine, it attacks well, it has balance, then the alcohol and tannins come in. You are temporarily blindsided, but the juiciness comes back, and the overall feeling is freshness. Very good. 94/100. Drink 2020-2035.
Chateau Pavie, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
As ever, a divisive wine that has divided critics. This has a rich, ripe nose. Ok, it hits you directly in the face, a clean, sharp punch, but then seems to clear away, there is a definite menthol hit that manages to wipe clean the palate on the finish. This is a wine that has learnt to deal with power. I often think of Pavie as menacing when young, and this is no different. But it has balance, and for the style of wine that they are trying to achieve, it works. 96/100 (the highest score that I have given Pavie at this stage). Drink 2020-2045.
Monbusquet Blanc, Bordeaux Blanc 2010
A wonderful floral nose, but crazy 15% alcohol that cuts the flavours and the fruit right down. Not balanced enough for my palate. 88/100
Ch Vignot, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Sandy, loam and clay soils. 70% merlot, 25 cab franc, 5 cab sauv, bought in 2003, vinified at Lassegue, this has tight but slightly pinched tannins, overly hot alcohol, and a drying finish. 30hl/h yields, same as last year, which is small. 13.8% abv. 3000 cases. 86/100. Drink 2018-2025.
Les Cadrans de Lassegue, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
The name refers to the sundials of Lassegue, which they physically have on the side of building. 60% merlot, 30% cabernet franc, 10 cabernet sauvignon, planted on the slopes. 14% alcohol, which I get on the attack but does melt in on the finish. Just started producing a second wine in 2008, 2500 cases. 89/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch Lassegue, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
4000 cases. Old vines, so a naturally low production, granite and limestone terroir, straight away get a lovely spicy nose from the old vines. I get slight ether aromas on the nose, bracing myself for alcohol. This is 14% alcohol also, but incredibly subtle on the finish with dancing tannins on the end of your tongue. I am seriously impressed with the elegance but real power of this wine. 65% merlot, 20% cab franc, 15% cab sauv. This is 98% final blend, one or two lots on the side to see how they progress. 93++/100. Drink 2020-2032.
Chateau Chaumont, Cotes de Bordeaux
Cuvee de la passion
Biodynamic vineyard. Lovely rich nose, very clear sweet oak, but enjoyable. Slightly drying on the finish. It's very good, great potential. 53% merlot, 25% cab sauvignon, 22% cab franc. 90/100. Drink 2017-2027.
Ch Tour de Sarrail, Bordeaux 2010
Owned by Hubert de Bouard with Bernard Pujol. Chalky tannins but some sweet fruit, and not too much heat on the finish. This is a pretty good wine. 87+/100. Drink 2017-2027.
Ch de Pressac, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
72% merlot, 14% cab franc, 12% cab sauv,, 1% caranere, 1% malbec (pressac), beautifully deeply fruited on the nose, so real spice. Good pure fruits, and the tunnel of acidity. Great finish, very sweet and soft, but powerful. Good effort. 93/100 (also tasted at Cercle de Rive Droite, same score).
Clos la Madeleine, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Slightly more pinched on the tannins, but this is another big, good quality wine, where the fruit comes in quickly, and hangs around. Not quite the same sweet elegance on the finish, but very enjoyable. 75 merlot, 25 cab franc 89-91 /100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch le Jurat, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
87% merlot, 9% cab sauv, 4 %cab franc. Little brett on the nose, and it's killing the fruit, w alcohol also. Not for me, or not a good sample. 84/100.
Ch la Commanderie, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Better, some well defined plum and damson fruits, and good length. Not soaring though. 80/20 merlot/cab franc. 89/100. Drink 2020-2030.
Ch Daugay, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Jean Bernard and Helene Grenie. 68% merlot, 24% cab franc, 8% cab sauv, lovely nose, clear oak but sweet with freshness. Heat, but well managed, and good juiciness. The finish does hold you tight, there is matiere here. Good. 92/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch Bellevue, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Very good this year. Real definition, excellent black cherry and redcurrant fruit, great length, no dip in mid palate. 98 merlot, 2 cab franc. 94-95/100. Drink 2020-2030.
Carillon d'Angélus, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
The second wines are really coming into their own right now in Bordeaux, and this one, from Chateau d’Angélus, is among the best. Beautiful redcurrant and violet nose, gorgeous. 2010 is an excellent year for cabernet franc, and here levels rise to 50%, blended with 50% merlot. Stunning length, tongue tingling freshness, for me the best example of Carillon produced at the estate. 94/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch d'Angelus, Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe (B)
55% merlot, 45% cab franc. A frank, slightly spicy, thoroughly inviting nose, and deep plum damson in colour. This has power, but is enormously racy, with a strong uplifting finish. It stays and dances on your palate at the end, just incredibly slick, confident and impressive wine making. 80% first wine this year, 20% second wine. (5% less first wine this year) 96-97/100. Drink 2022-2040.
Moueix tasting - the Saint Emilions (see Pomerol here)
Tasted two weeks after the en primeurs, which in a year like 2010 was really helpful, and definitely lends weight to the idea that en primeurs are too early. This was a great tasting across the board. Extraction/skin contact/press was carefully controlled for all the wines, and they were clearly successful because there wasn't a hint of over-heating.
Ch Puy Blanquet, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
For the first wine tasted of the day, this is very good, rich, full of blueberry and loganberry fruit, very juicy tannins, seriously impressed w how approachable this is, but full of flavour. Not particularly complex or long, but a lip smacker. 89-92/100
Ch La Serre saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Often one of my favourite St Emilions, and this year highly successful aswell, rich coffee, mocha, dark chocolate, all of those successful, contemporary toasted barrel flavours, alongside lovely ripe red fruits. Classy. 94++/100
Ch La Magdeleine, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
A classic restrained Magdeleine, more in its 'house style' than 2009, and one that I'm sure would please JC Berrouet, for its understated pleasure, and good levels of freshness. Very elegant, good ripe fruits, well balanced, no feeling of heat anywhere. 92-94/100
Ch Belair Monange St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Bought by the Moueix family in 2008, name changed (from Ch Belair) to honour Christian Moueix's grandmother. This again has a rich fruit backbone, very well integrated tannins, good balance. No issues going on w the Moueix team in st emilion this year, very impressed. Again that slight toasting from rhe barrel, sexily smudging the nose. 85% merlot, 15% cab franc. 92/100
Jonathan Maltus tasting
There has been a slight change in the Maltus style over the past few years, that is coming through in the wines but I'm not sure he is yet getting credit for. In the last two years, the vinification temperature has been brought down from 31 to 28 degrees, the oak is now at 80% new/20% one year for ageing, picking is a day or two earlier, and maceration is a day or two less. The wines still undergo malo in barrel from Laforge upwards, but certainly there seems to be a serious and (for me at least) welcome shift towards freshness. Maltus fans needn't be too concerned - these are still rich, full of deep flavours and will still make an impact over a dining table, but the power is less abrupt, and the acidity of 2010 makes this even more apparent. He might get criticism for being reactive to trends in the wider market, but surely only in Bordeaux itself, where there can be a perverse pride in wilfully ignoring consumers.
Ch Pezat, Bordeaux 2010
85/15 merlot/cabernet franc. I always like this wine, it manages to be perky and pretty in most vintages. This growing season was finished with no hail and no coulure, so generally at good volumes, and production is at 4000 cases. Out of all of the range tasted at Maltus, this is the only one where I felt there was unjustified heat, that wasn't fully balanced by the other elements. 86+/100. Drink 2013-2020.
Ch Teyssier, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
70/30 merlot, cabernet franc. This has a real depth of fruit, with ripe red summer berries and a good fresh lift on the finish. Successful, good quality, great value for a wine that has remained close to the same price for the past 10 years. 90+/100. Drink 2016-2024.
Ch Laforge, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
92% merlot, 8% cab franc. Malo in 100% new barrel, ageing in the 80/20 mix that is now standard with Maltus. Gorgeous bright en primeur colour, gourmet and sweet but very appealing. This blend was created on the first attempt by the way, apparently one of the very few than Jonathan and his team (Gilles Paquet is consultant) have ever pulled off - they did try others, but went right back to their initial suggestion because it worked the best! 92/100. Drink 2016-2026.
Le Carre, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
85% merlot/15% cabernet franc, 14.65 alcohol, pH 3.70 (towards the high end within the context of 2010 but still low enough to allow a good whoosh of acidity). The power starts coming in to the mid palate here, the intensity of the fruit is excellent but I have reservations over the finish. The clay terroir here gives plump richness to the merlot, and it feels the most 'modern' of the wines. Small 1 hectare plot, 350 cases. 92-93/100. Drink 2016-2030.
Les Asteries, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Again a tiny plot of just one hectare. I love this one, this has the tunnel of acidity that gives silkiness to the fruit, cuts through the richness, really a wonderful balance, far more my style of wine, the elegance here gives an effortless sense of balance, even at 14.65 alcohol. 95+/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Vieux Chateau Mazerat, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
Wonderful violet rim, hugely concentrated wine, from vines that touch Chateau Angelus up on the limestone plateau. The blend is 65% merlot and 35% cab franc on clay over limestone. On the palate also there are violet edges, playing nicely off herbal notes that make the overall experience savoury. Good concentration. Very successful. 94+/100. Drink 2018-2032.
Le Dome, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010
80/20 cab franc/merlot. A huge cabernet franc wine in a cabernet franc year, got to be worth a look. Liquorice root on the nose. This is incredibly dense, with powerful fruit, excellent persistance, and smooth, well-knitted tannins. This starts off with powerful impact, but the acidity then reaches in and lifts everything up on the finish. Tannins are gently building up as the mid-palate progresses, and knead the fruit along to the finish. 97/100. Drink 2018-2035.
Clos Nardian, Bordeaux Blanc 2010
40% semillon, 40% sauvignon blanc, 20% muscadelle. This has an incredibly aromatic nose, and a welcome lift on the finish, but the mid palate lacks a little freshness and definition for me. Good gourmet feel though, with stone fruits and fleshy ripeness. 89/100. Drink 2012-2018.
UGC St Emilion
Chateau la Gaffeliere, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Beautiful dense red in colour, warm nose, slightly exotic, some japanese umi plum. Soft and sweet on the attack, although some heat creeps in afterwards. Overall, a good length, lift on the finish. Just a touch unbalanced at the end of mouth. 91-92/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Chateau Franc Mayne Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Bright, deep red, with some violet on the rim. This is a richer take on the vintage, more extraction and more tannins. Hitting a wall with the acidity and alcohol here, but it tapers away to an enjoyable lift on the finish. Built to last, but a little drying. 90-92/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Chateau Larcis Ducasse, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Nicolas Thienpont consults at this estate, and has coaxed a glass staining true en primeur purple colour. Sweet cherry on the nose, some good acidity, a cohesive if big approach, with an excellent punch of fruit on the finish. Really enjoyable wine. 93-94/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Beau-sejour Becot, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Quite a different nose, far more darkly spiced, plum and cassis. This is rich, there is high alcogol clearly, but deftly managed, with reasonable balance. Some liquorice, a touch of savoury herbs that are very welcome, because this again in a serious, well built wine. 93/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch la Couspaude, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Less successful for me, this has heat, a lot of pure cassis that kicks in once you get past the initial wall, but not entirely coming together. I csn clearly feel the matiere, the ripe tannins and the acidity, but it is not mouthwatering as some are, rather it takes a more brooding approach. Interesting, an intellectual wine. 90-91/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Trottevielle, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Slightly lighter, more cherry red in character, very sweet on the nose. And this seems to have missed the point a little. The fruit is dense, but without spaces in between, and there is not enough lift in the mid palate to carry to through the alcohol to the finish. It's big, might have been pleasing in the cellar, but lacks something. 89/100. Drink 2017-2027.
Ch Figeac, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Rich glass staining red, a relatively restrained nose, but saves it for the palate, which is a brooding hit, right in the mouth. It then drops off with a welcome break, and builds gently again. Very good quality, the cabernet sauvignon coming through clearly, and very successfully. Big, but it works. 94+/100. Drink 2018-2032.
Ch Dassault, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Sweet cherry, bright violet, back to normsl right bank en primeur service. Again, this is big and rich. Huge tannins, and pretty chewy, a lot to get through. The acidty though keeos the ball in the air right to the end, thank god, be ause it needs it. This is not exactly voluptuous, it again needs time to cobsider, but the oalate keeps on delivering. Hard to aeguecwith that finish. 93/100. Drink 2017-2027.
Ch Pavie Maquin, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Bright purple, huge attack with too much heat, come on acidity, bring it on!! It does come in, but there is a disconnect between the attack and the finish. Left hanging in between, into the void. 89-90/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch la Dominique, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
This is a big machine, the alcohol is kept in check but you are left in no doubt that it's there, and waiting to pounce. I do miss a sense of delicacy here. It is all about the power, and I would like a little more waft of charm. 91/100. Drink 2018-2028.
Ch Grand Mayne, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Stately purple robes here, I really like this. Juicy cassis fruit, well defined, sparkling bright, not over the top or over extracted. Quite a subtle wine really, but classic, well balanced and enjoyable. 94/100. Drink 2017-2028.
Ch Berliquet, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Rich red colour, clearly high in alcohol from the viscous texture, and the first attack has some heat. I like the silkiness, and am not finding any dryness on the finish, but I am searching for the fruit. It does seem to be favouribg alcohol over fruit. 89/100. Drink 2017-2025.
Ch Troplong Mondot, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Love the colour of these wines. A plummier, slightly candied nose compared to some, but the heat just knocks you over, takes all the fun out of the fruit. Here you really have to be patient for the acidity to come back in, and frankly life's too short. Even 90 seconds in I am still working through the heat at the back of the throat. This is always a big wine (last year 15.5%), but last year the fruit was more enjoyable, so it became a guilty pleasure. I don't get this time. 89-91/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Larmande, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Lovely en primeur purple, cedary, smoky sweet nose. What I like here, as with so many 2010s, is the length, the freshness on the finish, the layers. But yet again the alcohol throws off the sweet black fruits and earthy tannins that I am enjoying, shame. 90/100. Drink 2017-2027.
Ch Clos Fourtet, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Much better balance here, although slightly sour mid palate from the alcohol. But good texture to the wine, silky smooth, and good ripe red fruits. 92/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch Canon, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Enjoyable nose, good spicy fruited attack, but again the alcohol is threatening typicity. It rights itself though, and clever winemaking is clearly at work here. There is definite ageing potential. 91-93/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch La Tour Figeac, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Again, come on guys. The alcohol is hiding the fruit, how many times do we have to say this?? Why take such risks with the sense of place!?? 88/100. Drink 2017-2027.
Ch Balestard la Tonelle, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Deep, rich yet vibrant purple red, this has a far better balance, and a wonderful sense of richness, opulence, acidty and with a fresh finish. Great tannic structure, in control of the alcohol. Very good, 93-94/100. Drink 2018-2030.
Ch la Gaffeliere, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
So intense, so knitted together that it is hard to break through. Deep liquorice and dark coffee beans, espresso in a Milan cafe. It delivers a fresh finish, and there is quite clearly huge potential, no drying tannins. Another intellectual, brooding wibe, not immediately pleasurable, but packed full of interest. 93/100. Drink 2019-2032.
Ch Cap de Moulin, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2010
Slight reduction? There are definite pinched fruit aromas, but seems to come together better on the palate. Needs time to unwind, but there are some good clean fruits on show. 90/100. Drink 2017-2027.