Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classes 2008s
I feel very close to these wines, having written in excess of 20 articles and news pieces about the whole 2006 classification since it was released in 2006, and all the subsequent problems. I tasted blind here, so that I could not be at all influenced by what I knew of the politics!! This was largely a very good tasting, although there were a few lowlights. The first three were tasted directly at Chateau Cheval Blanc.
Petit Cheval, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Gorgeous rich and ripe red, with a bright dash of violet, lovely colour. This is very deep, very intense fruit. No harsh tannins, very smooth, clean flavours. Gorgeous, really a beautiful second wine, with the overriding impression being of clean, crisp, well defined fruit. Lightly done, very deft, and very silky. ‘Very great surpise,' says Pierre Lurton, 'for me this is the best Petit Cheval since 1990.’ 20% of total production. 94.
Le Tour du Pin, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Again, this enormously bright purple colour. Plot by plot vinification, in 50-hectolitre vats. Again, the pure, suave fruit is striking. Very snooth, very well presented, not putting a foot wrong. It’s gorgeous, excellent quality. Loving these wines. 93.
Chateau Cheval Blanc, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe A
Very deep colour, wonderfully rich and pure purple. This is wonderfully ripe, rich and yet very delicate on the nose. There is gorgeous fruit there, that just creeps up on you with great charm. Have to let this sit in your mouth for a while, as it gathers pace. It’s gorgeous, the flavours just layer gently on top of each other, lovely creamy violets, blackberries, gorgeous bursts of flavour. Very good acidity but so unobtrusive you almost don’t feel it. Good structure, ripe fruit tannins that have the stickiness and presence to clearly age very well, but again not a hint of dryness. Grapes picked from September 30 until 17th October. Long and slow, kept waiting to pick each parcel at optimum ripess. 50% of total (last year was 35% of total). 96-97
Clos des Jacobins, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
80% merlot, 20% cabernets franc and sauvignon. 8.5 hectares. Very ample on the nose. This has definite merit – the flavour kicks in after a few seconds, there is a definite pause when you first take a sip, then the flavours kick in, which makes you take your time and think about it. I really like the depth of fruit, and the smokiness, but it could have a little more freshness (tasted this also at Chateau Angelus, not blind, where I gave it 89). 88-89.
Chateau Moulin du Cadet , Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Owned by Isabelle and Pierre Blois-Moueix, this vineyard has been organic since 2002. Rich, ripe ruby in colour. Blackcurrant leaf, very different from the other ones, it is 100% merlot, grown over 5 hectares. Very rich and complex, layers of flavour. Tannins ever so slightly drying, and freshness is lower in this, but good extraction, and good impact. No filtering is done at this estate. 90.
Cap de Mourlin, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
The estate covers 14 hectares over clay, limestone and sand. There are ripe red colours and some nice rich fruit on the nose. But disappointing on the palate, slightly clumsy and lacking in finesse. There is good fruit here, but it clearly needs more time to integrate with the oak. The same family own Balestard la Tonnelle, which I liked much better (see below). 87-88.
Chateau Matras, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Ten hectares, 50% cabernet franc and 50% merlot. The property is known for being delicate, but this seems short and a little flat. Disappointing really. 85.
Chateau La Couspaude, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Owned by the Aubert family, this is an estate that has made serious strides in quality in recent years. Dark rich purple in colour (not the brilliant purple of many primeurs, it’s more restrained in colour). Rich on the palate also, this is very intense fruit, well rounded tannins and very nice level of extraction. Good density and depth of flavour, and not drying at all. Good. 93.
Clos Saint Martin, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Just five hectares in size, and well located very centrally in Saint Emilion. It is again on the rich velvety red colour spectrum, rather than the reflective vibrant purples. More muted on the nose, and less impressive on the palate. Green notes and slightly short, although there is some fruit character evident. Overall disappointing. 86-87.
Chateau L’Arosee, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Bought in 2004 by Roger Caille, this has been slowly working its way back up to full quality after some uneven years. 60% merlot and 20% each of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Deep, again with few reflective tones, but good intensity. Muted nose, but pleasant black fruits. Good blackcurrant notes, and some interesting violet overtones, but slightly lacking in mid palate, and the tannins are not full ripe. 88-89.
Chateau Bergat, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Owned by the Casteja family (of negociants Borie-Manoux and Chateau Batailly). This has sweeter notes on the nose, and good vibrancy in the colour. Interesting, and clearly they have worked hard to get the best out of this fruit. Just four hectares, and usually up to 35% of cabernet franc in the mix. There is good structure, the tannins are in no way overpowering or drying, and there is good freshness. Bit short. 88-89.
Chateau Haut Sarpe, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
The Joseph Janoueix family also owns a Libourne negociant house. This is one of the bigger Saint Emilion properties at just over 20 hectares, and this 2008 has a lovely colour, intense but vibrant. Sweet black cherries on the nose, and evident new oak. Full extraction, very slightly overworked, but this has very good structure and freshness, and can see it will age very well. 92-93.
Chateau Larcis Ducasse, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Managed by Nicolas Thienpont, this is a cherry red, and has further redcurrant on the nose, over-extracted and slightly stalky. This is obviously well worked, and trying very hard, and has potential in the structure. Weighty mid-palate, and the fruit is okay, but it is a bit disjointed at present. 89-90.
Chateau Bellefont Belcier, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe (promoted in 2006 after having lost the classification in 1996)
Seriously broody in colour, some vibrant reflections but overall very intense. New oak and rich red fruits on the nose. Very smooth and silky, good extraction although it ends slightly under-ripe. Liquorice and vanilla. Lots of oak. 91.
Chateau Destieux , Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Owned by Christian Duariac, who also has Chateau La Clemence in Pomerol. Ruby red. Enveloping nose, good weight of fruit. Very extracted, really think they have pushed this too far for the ripeness of the fruit. Good acidity and backbone, but the tannins are drying at the end and it is slightly mouth-puckering. 88.
Chateau Fonplegade, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
18 hectares, recently renovated by American owner Stephen Adams. Lovely colours, and very clear attempt to work this vintage. The (red) fruit has vibrancy, but it’s hollow at its centre. Vanilla from the new oak is not fully integrated at this stage with the rest of the wine (and it is now to spend 24 months in entirely new oak). Has some subtlety of flavour, which I like, but just a bit short. 89.
Chateau Laniote, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Owned by the Lacoste family, this has good reflections and real vibrancy. Again the oak is evident on the nose, but there is also plenty of fruit, mainly of the dark summer variety. Good structure and acidity, this is a wine that will age well, and has real potential. Chewy tannins and good finesse underneath the tannic structure, nicely perfumed from 20% cabernet franc. Clearly a good future. 92.
Chateau La Serre, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Delicate and fresh on the nose, and medium to full intensity in colour. Like this, very sweet and charming, lovely fresh fruit. Charming. Also good structure and freshness, some mint and herb notes, and no dip in mid palate, well balanced throughout. 94+. (tasted again later in the week at Moueix and again really really liked this).
Chateau Chauvin, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Run by the Ondet sisters, this is more muted on the nose than the preceding wine, but there is good depth of fruit. It’s more grown up, but has less charm. There is good structure and chewy tannins, and although the oak is slightly jarring now feel it will integrate. But there are some green notes underneath the structure that comes through at the end, which means it falls off short. Disappointing finish. 87-88.
Chateau Corbin, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Lovely vibrant intensity to the colour. Chocolate, mocha and mint on the nose, very attractive (if ‘modern’!). Slightly drying tannins, but overall this is very good and well made, with attractive freshness. Wild strawberries and good depth of fruit. Not a stand out, but certainly very accomplished. 90.
Chateau Balestard la Tonnelle, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
A good primeur purple here, and very much a primeur nose. It’s full and dense and got lots of coffee on the taste, like you have a full cup of cappuccino in front of you. Frothy almost, like the run-off wine when it is being pumped over. An interesting glass in fact – very good structure, and good length. I keep waiting for the tannins to dry out, but they are not doing. It’s big, but it’s good! 92-93.
Chateau Fonroque, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Alain Moueix’s biodynamic estate. Deep purple colour, slightly more pinched on the nose. This is all tannins but with some good purity of fruits beneath. There is a lot to get through, and it has good length. This is not the easiest sample here to taste, but there is clear potential, and lovely backbone. 88-90
Chateau Corbin Michotte, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Much lighter both in colour and intensity of flavour, possibly because it has up to 30% cabernet franc in the mix. I like this; it’s fresh and balanced, and has lovely fruit. It’s correct – but doesn’t seem complicated enough for its classification. 89-90.
Grand Pontet , Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Owned by the same family as Beau-Sejour-Becot, but a less successful wine for me. Vibrant colour and nose, lots of red fruit although slightly sickly (but not new oak, they use one year old barrels), and this carries through to the palate. Needs more fruit to balance it out. 86.
Chateau La Clotte, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Just four hectares for this vineyard, located very close to the town centre. Very deep, rich colour, almost black. Like the nose, it has elegance and is restrained, but with fruit. Smoky overtones, and real depth of flavour. Lovely undertones of coffee and mocha, but subtle enough that it doesn’t feel too contrived. Like it a lot. 92-93.
Chateau Grand Corbin Despagne, Saint Emilion Grand Cru (promoted to grand cru classe in 2006)
Vibrant ecclesiastical purple. The nose feels a touch over-extracted, but has good smoky oak (Francois Despagne uses about 40% new oak in this). It’s making a statement, and manages to take its foot off the pedal before it reaches over-extraction, keeping a lovely purity of fruit. Good complexity. The vineyard is around 90% organic. 90.
Chateau Larmande, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
A large estate at 25 hectares, but a very good one. This 2008 Larmande has full intensity. Good black fruits and plenty of tannins. Good freshness and rich blackberry leaf. Clearly a good future ahead of it, and there is a silkiness that is very successful. Tight, fine tannins. 92-93.
Chateau Le Prieure , Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Black in colour, and for me the oak is a little too evident on the nose. But rich black cherries also on the palate, and there is a freshness that underpins the fruit and tannins. It’s a big wine, and has good smokiness to the oak on the palate. Temperature of the sample a little too cold. I like this, but it is big. 90.
Chateau Soutard, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Like how tight the fist is on this nose. Good spice to it. The structure is very weighty, and really enjoy the finesse and freshness. It’s a big, brooding wine, with some menace and intent, but it is good and should develop very well over the next year before release. Vineyard subject to recent investment. 93-93.
Chateau Laroque, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Promoted in the 1996 classification, so neatly avoiding the problems faced by Grand Corbin Despagne et al. Muted red on the colour, somehow lacks the final kick of an en primeur sample. Ample fruit on the nose, and no faults, but it lacks clarity. Needs better definition and more structure to pull all the fruit together. 86-87.
Chateau Ripeau, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Good colour and nose. Good length, depth and power, but without real personality for me. It is clearly good, and well made, but not one that I think has flair in this vintage. 89-90.
Chateau La Tour Figeac, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Intense, rich colour, and a very deep rich nose. Subtle but rich, which I like. Good structure, although there is dryness and the tannins could be a touch riper. Still, there is clearly a lot to work with her, and should age very well. 90.
Chateau Franc Mayne, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Bright rich red, black cherry and vanilla. Too much new oak on the palate, which overpowers whatever else is going on – shame, and will perhaps integrate better over the next year, so definitely worth retasting. The same family own Chateau de Lussac, which I really enjoyed in a separate tasting. 88.
Chateau Fleur Cardinale, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Owned by Dominique et Florence Decoster. Good deep colour, and a nice stately elegant nose (this has 30% mix of cabernet franc and sauvignon). I like this in fact, there is good extraction, and good oak but not too overdone. Nice dark fruits and freshness. Very good. 92.
Chateau Le Grande Murailles , Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Good intensity, nice extraction and good chewy tannic structure. Slightly lacks freshness, but has good depth of flavour and clearly tried hard to maximise the year. Good length. 91.
Chateau Laroze, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Good vibrant colour. Rich fruit but here we go with the sweet vanilla oak. Has some definition of the fruit, and it has some length, but the oak is clumsy. Not bad at all, but not upper echelons. 91-92.
Chateau Cadet Piola, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Nose slightly pinched and a little underipe. Bit short. There is good fruit here in fact, and starts off very promisingly. But cant quite get it over 90 points, it just doesn’t come together for me, lacks cohesion. 88.
Chateau Grand Corbin, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Nice deep colour, although without the purple haze. Closed on the nose, although there is some subtle fruit underneath. There is tannin, freshness, fruit – all the required parts – but no cohesion in the three elements. Good smokiness, and think this could develop very well. When did they put this together? 90.
Saint Georges Cote Pavie , Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Rich, intense purple, and very intense on the nose. A little tight. Some power, some pinching. Think a tad underripe, although they have hidden it well. 90-91
Chateau La Dominique , Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Lovely rich purple, and lovely vibrant fruit. Big, deep, flavours. Like this, but at the very beginning (luckily!) of a long development. Since htis is going to open up and age very well over the next year or so. A good bet. 92-93.
Couvent des Jacobins, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
This is an over-extracted, very difficult chewy wine, but without the fruit to make it acceptable. Depth and intensity yes, but no warmth and not enough fruit. 87-88.
Chateau Guadet, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe (declassified in 2006)
Piched and a little underripe. There is structure, again, but over extracted for the ripeness of the fruit. (really would like to stress that this was tasted blind, and not altered once I knew what it was) 88.
Chateau Dessault, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
This has a more interesting and promising nose. Very nice rich, plump fruits. Tobacco leaf, blackcurrant leaf, small touches of mocha. It isn’t fabulously plump or ripe on the palate, but it does have good length, and some good nuances. 91.
Chateau Haut Corbin, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
Deep black fruit on the nose. Starts slow, and even a little pinched, bu there is very good depth of flavour and very good intensity, it gets better and better as it goes along, which is an unusual juxtaposition. Enormously concentrated pencil lead and liquorice. Very good, although needs time. 93+