The First Growths 2008s

Chateau Mouton Rothschild, First Classified Growth, AOC Pauillac

This gorgeous colour again, which is rich and intense while still being ‘Bordeaux’. The nose has elements of spice and white pepper, and lovely aromatic freshness. Very good tannic structure again, more present than the Petit Mouton, and with a greater seam of freshness and acidity running through it, but still with so much fleshy damson fruits around to fill things out. This has gorgeous ‘matiere’, really plump and yet very elegant. Enormously enjoyable, without being in the slightest overdone. Very good, far better than the 2007, and for me better than the 2006. 83% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot – interesting that this has more merlot in than the second wine (this is fairly usual with Mouton, and last year was at 19%, but not true across many Medoc estates). 96-97.

Chateau Lafite Rothschild, First Classified Growth, AOC Pauillac

The colour bounces along here, it really is lovely. First impressions pencil lead and lovely layers of mint, cedar and very rich fruit. The fruit perhaps doesn’t jump out at you, but it is immediately apparent that there is plenty of it, and that in the fullness of time it will reveal itself. Just a lovely plump fist of damsons, sour cherries, blackcurrants and pencil shavings to stop anything from being too sweet. A real presence. Cabernet sauvignon 83%, merlot 13%, cabernet franc 4%. Picking dates from 1 October (merlot) until 16 October (petit verdot), with plenty of pauses to picking only at full and even ripeness. The tannins are very big, and I would think you have a good 15 years ahead before it starts to really open up, but this is a classic Lafite territory, and the chateau pretty much owns this particular approach to winemaking in Bordeaux. 96-98.

Chateau Latour, First Classified Growth, AOC Pauillac

Making up 40% of the production in 2008, this wine is 94% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, 0.75% cabernet franc and 0.25% petit verdot. The percentage of first wine stays about the same most years, although they are buying some more vines to increase the production of Forts de Latour. Picking dates here ran from September 29th until October 7th for the merlots, with the final cabernet sauvignons coming in on October 19th. During the harvest, there were 190 people working in the vineyard, 90 of them pickers. The nose of this is very elegant. It reveals itself slowly but with great finesse. Lovely fruit, really shows yet again how the cabernet in the northern Medoc has done so well. Lovely sweetness to it, and a mouth-watering finish that is very seductive. The freshness and structure of this is really excellent, with high levels of acidity that give a slight austerity. Excellent, very clean and precise, and not at all intimidating as perhaps Lafite can be, with its huge tannins. Lovely and thought-provoking, with great finesse on the finish. ABV 13.48%. 97-98.

Chateau Haut Brion, First Classified Growth, AOC Pessac Leognan

Coulure was principal problem with the 2008 vintage (not just here of course), but they managed to end up with 46 hl/h because did a less severe green harvest. Final blend is 41% merlot, 50% cabernet sauvignon, 9% cabernet franc (last year 43% merlot, 44% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cab franc). Over the last 10 years, Haut Brion has really upped the amount of cabernet sauvignon, and this was a difficult year for merlot with millerandage and so had to do extensive plot selection. With the vinification, the first wine has a short maceration this year, particularly for the merlot, four days shorter than usual, because there were a lot of difficult tannins (14 days instead of 18), also shorter cycles of pumping over than usual. A lot of vineyard selection, this year for the first time at least three times in every single plot of merlot (twice for the cabernets). Always do this for the white grapes, but first time that this has been done for the merlot. And each selection was vinified separately – because ripeness was so uneven. Far deeper and darker in colour, although yet again they are very good at holding off before there is even a hint of over-extraction. What a wonderfully deep and intense nose. This is powerful stuff, absolutely gorgeous wine. Really just so full of so many layers of fruits, slightly spicy with white pepper and some lovely savoury touches, they have managed to get the very best out of the grapes without veering over into anything too intrusive or clanging, as has happened too many times with the other Pessac Leognans. A wonderful benchmark for the rest of the appellation. Rich, powerful red and black fruits, a gorgeously piercing seam of acidity, and utterly gorgeous structure. My wine of the vintage. 98.

(Chateau Margaux only one I didn’t get to... will do my best to get there next week).